Wanderlust

Japan

Thu, 15 Jan 2026 12:48:25 GMT

After a mere three weeks in the land of the rising sun, I have yet to see a trash bin, apart from in the hotel room. Out on the streets and in public areas, there are none to be found. You would expect the streets to be a filthy mess. On the contrary, it is the cleanest country there is. At most hotels and also restaurants, you exchange your shoes for slippers at the door. Megacities like Tokyo are spotless; there is little – if any - trash at all on the streets. Everyone is expected to take their trash back home with them. Where it is then separated and collected. You don't see or notice any of this. As a Westerner you have to get used to carrying your dirty plastic waste in your bag all day. Risking a penalty, throwing away garbage is discouraged. As is smoking. Smoking is not allowed in public – at risk of penalties. These are some of the "harsh" pronounced rules. Then follows a multitude of etiquette and unwritten rules. Quite wonderful, as it is a culture shock for many visitors. Mostly in a positive sense; one is impressed by Japanese discipline and attention to detail. Great to witness the attention to detail. From all sorts of personal tools and "hacks" to handwritten notes on how to use a piece of equipment. Better avoid the toilets, it's a real hassle with all kinds of buttons and electronics. If you don’t watch out, you’ll be sprayed from all sides (although sometimes they have heated covers). The manners, discipline and attention to detail I have not yet seen to this extent anywhere else. Japanese seem to realize that if each of the 125 million (and declining because of aging population) does his or her part, society will be better off. And all those millions of acts do make a difference; it feels like a modern Western country with a culture 180 degrees opposite from Northern Europe and the US.

Politeness knows no boundaries in Japan. It's form and etiquette but rather pleasant. This does make it more difficult to strike up a "normal" conversation and the language barrier does not help. I find the Japanese somewhat reserved. I don't think it is a lack of interest or curiosity, but they just leave you alone. No one to come over for a chat or show any interest. Hence, Japan is popular among introverted travelers; you are left alone. I do find this to be a downside of traveling through Japan. Especially after the last Olympics, most Japanese do speak a word of English, but not wholeheartedly. They seem rather ashamed of their poor English. As true perfectionists, they prefer to do something with complete devotion or not at all. You won't easily meet an indifferent Japanese. Even the traffic controller or train conductor takes his job deadly seriously. Then what comes across - ironically - as rude to me is being refused at restaurants because they don't have a good command of English or otherwise think they can't serve you well. That refusal is indirect, by stating, for example, that the restaurant is full or only works with advance reservations.

I think the comparison of Japan to England (also an island state) versus China and the U.S. is quite apt. The contrast between politeness and perfectionism on the one hand versus speed and results oriented on the other. In my opinion, it must be oppressive to be Japanese. People sometimes outcompete each other in politeness. This can be hilarious and one can have a laugh at it. In particular, letting each other go ahead at a door, stairs or elevator. In one bus ride, the driver manages to avoid an almost certain collision. He holds his arm in front of the passengers standing next to him as if he might still catch them. It is totally not his fault but at the next stop he personally walks into the back of the bus to apologize to everyone (!). I prefer to travel by train but with such a bus driver I will gladly get on board again. In public transport - but also elsewhere - still a lot of mouth masks. The hygiene standard is probably a bit over the top. Really everything is packed in small plastic bags. In some hotels you get a new bag hung on your door every day full of one-time disposables like a razor, cotton swabs and even pajamas. Disinfectants and wet towelettes are everywhere in restaurants. Above all, it's a lot of (unnecessary) plastic and paper.

On the streets nothing but fuel-efficient Toyotas, Suzuki’s, Honda's, Nissan's, Daihatsu's and Subaru's. Japan has virtually no oil and gas reserves and must import all fuels. After the oil crisis in the 1970s, things changed. No huge SUVs here but small, economical cube boxes (where exactly they hide the engine is a mystery to me). One can argue about taste but they hardly make any noise. And of course, there is no honking. You have to be careful though; the steering wheel is on the right and people drive on the left (just like in the UK). Japan is - unfortunately - not a cycling country at all. Koga Miyata may be originally Japanese, but I haven't been able to discover one meter of bike lane in this country. That's a real shame, because the few cyclists you see ride on the sidewalk or in between cars.

The trains and subway, on the other hand, are great. As with soda vending machines (where bottles of cold and hot tea are sold) and payment machines in stores, the transaction here is done by machine. Japan of course has the "bullet" trains (Shinkansen) but also many small regional commuter trains. One time it's just one wagon and I stand at the front pretty much next to the driver for the entire ride. It's confusing, all these different lines and exceptions. But there are rarely delays and you don't need a car to travel around Japan. Tokyo is mostly very big and crowded. If you like shopping you are in the right place here. There is no end to huge shopping malls with "fast fashion" and electronics. In large halls, dozens of young Japanese sit side by side behind large gaming machines. A Westerner is no longer a novelty here. There are many tourists, the mysterious and quirky Japan holds appeal. They are not the typical backpackers of South America or Southeast Asia. Although you can travel and stay relatively cheaply in one of the many capsule hotels. However, here you are locked in a two-square-meter cell without any window! Hotels are fairly pricey in Tokyo, but no more expensive than Amsterdam. And eating out is cheaper than Holland or Belgium. The cuisine disappoints me - as a vegetarian. Again, a barrage of unwritten rules for eating out that you get used to by trial and error. Use chop sticks and do not leave any food on your plate. Tipping is rude, but you get used to that quickly enough. It is mainly a lot of meat. And fish. Vegetarian options are rather limited, you really have to look out for them. There are vegetarian options but less than, for example, in China or Taiwan where there is more tofu on offer.

What a mesmerizing mountain mount Fuji is. An inactive volcano and the highest peak in Japan, right around the corner from Tokyo. No wonder it attracts a lot of people on weekends. Up to the tree line it is beautiful hiking through the forest. The mountain's sacred status is reflected in the many shrines or altars and places of worship along the way. Japan's original religion, Shintoism, had many characteristics of a pagan religion. Afterwards, it became more and more intertwined with Buddhism. No snow on the mountain in the summer months and that is the season Fuji is climbed then. By thousands at a time and it is quite crowded. In early October it is quiet and although it is officially not allowed and strongly discouraged, it is condoned. It is a long climb but without any risks. The altitude (3,767m) is doable for almost anyone. In the winter months it is a different story because there is a lot of snow. You then need more equipment and layers of clothing. The day Simon from Amiens and I reach the top, the weather is beautiful with gorgeous views. The wind chill is -15 degrees at the summit, mainly due to the icy gusts. We are still in pretty good shape and decide to race down to catch the last bus. Not necessarily needed (we can also share a cab) but feasible and practical. An hour and 1,500 meters down, the tank is empty but we are on the bus. For Simon it was all a bit too much, he cramps up and faints in the bus. Fortunately, he is still conscious and lying on the floor he slowly recovers. He went a little too deep today.

The journey continues to Hakuba in Nagano province. The area is better known as the "Japanese Alps”. Scattered throughout this area were the 1998 Winter Olympics. This is still recognizable everywhere, especially in this small town also known as the "Chamonix of Japan”. Especially in the winter months, skiers and snowboarders from all over the world descend get down here for fresh powder. In the summer, the hiking is beautiful. Even now in autumn, conditions are excellent and there is only the first layer of snow on the peaks. It is mainly well-equipped Japanese seniors who go out there. The ski lifts serve to drop off hikers in the mid-mountains to take a shot at some of the peaks from there. Some beautiful walks follow through forests full of foliage and past small lakes to the snow-white peaks. Back in the village, the young Japanese working in the hotels speak good English. They are winter sports enthusiasts awaiting the snow season.

It doesn’t get much more secure or safe as a traveler than in Japan. The South American habit of hands tightly on wallet and phone is slowly wearing off. At ATMs, I no longer look cautiously over my shoulders. A few times I see people knee down to pick up a lost dime from the street and return it to its rightly owner. Japan invariably appears in lists of safest countries to travel. The same applies to road safety. On the other hand, it's better not to come into contact with law enforcement. Although this is perhaps universal. The justice department has enormous powers and authority. Suspects who appear in court are invariably convicted; this conviction rate is 99.8% (!). Precisely because of this disturbing statistic, fallen from grace top executive Carlos Ghosn (Renault Nissan) planned his by now famous escape. In late 2019, he decided - while under house arrest - not to await any longer the allegations of fraud and self-enrichment. Hidden in a musical instrument case (with air holes), he was smuggled out of the country in a private flight with help from U.S. ex-Marines. The plan miraculously succeeded and Japan was making a fool for oneself. For now, Mr. Ghosn is safely back home in Lebanon, a country with no extradition treaty with Japan. Free, but without the privileges of the CEO of a multinational corporation.

Kyoto is a wonderful city, a breath of fresh air after Tokyo. Glass and concrete give way to greenery and wood. The city, with all its temples, looks rather relaxed. Although it is also teeming with tourists. Kyoto was close to being razed to the ground. The old capital was listed by the US to be the site of the first atomic bomb. The then U.S. Secretary of State could not bring himself to destroy the city of his honeymoon. Thus, the many pagodas, temples and houses with wooden facades still stand proudly. There are fewer high-rises, more greenery and the many narrow streets are scenic. Busy port city Osaka, a stone's throw away, is the opposite again. Modern and focused on dining and shopping. Residents here set themselves more clearly against traditional Japan.

"City of Peace" Hiroshima leaves quite a mark. The park and museum are well designed. When Nazi Germany capitulated in May 1945, no nuclear weapon existed. Various regimes were working feverishly on it, until then without any breakthrough. The "Manhattan Project" was set up partly out of fear that the Nazis were working on a powerful new weapon. Under Oppenheimer's watch, work progressed steadily at Los Alamos, although the first successful tests were not completed until after Germany's capitulation. Japan did not want to capitulate and did not agree to the demands as presented by the big three at Potsdam. Truman informed Stalin a day before the conference of the successful test of a new, powerful weapon. Stalin, however, thanks to his spies, had long known about it. His response was that it would only be a good thing if the war ended rather quickly. The idea of a demonstration bomb on a remote island was dismissed. Thus, Truman made the dramatic decision to deploy a nuclear weapon at a logistical and military hub. This decision was partly motivated as a deterrent to Russia in particular (as a harbinger of the cold war) but mainly because of the fierce Japanese resistance the U.S. Army encountered at Okinawa. A prolonged war with many losses was a doomsday scenario for the Americans. Hiroshima was thus wiped out, tens of thousands of civilians perished in a hellfire. Although the scale of the disaster reached Tokyo fairly quickly, (divided) Japan did not want to capitulate immediately and stuck to its conditions. The armed forces preferred to fight to the bitter end. Japan's main demand, preservation of "divinity of the emperor," must be understood in light of the nation-state or national identity so typical of the period. General Douglas MacArthur eventually forced Emperor Hirohito to renounce his "divinity" via a radio address (Japanese had never heard him speak before). Nonetheless, Hirohito (who was heavily involved in the war effort) was able to stay on and even paid an official visit to the Netherlands in 1971 (accompanied by the understandable protests).

In the niche of an isolated island, Japanese culture was able to maintain and develop its uniqueness. The culture remained intact for so long in part because there had never been (with the exception of the American occupation after WWII) a foreign occupier. Outside influences were kept at bay throughout the centuries. The Portuguese were the first Europeans on the scene and preyed on trade with the shoguns (local leaders). The conversion drive of Catholicism ultimately did not please the Japanese at all, and the Portuguese were therefore expelled from the country without pardon in 1639. Years before, the first contacts with Dutch trade missions were not considered unpleasant. More merchant than pastor, the religiously unassuming Dutch Protestants were more agreeable to the locals. The crafty Dutch merchants managed to fool the shoguns into believing that the rival English adhered to Catholicism. Because of this, and because the larger Papal armies were feared, only the Dutch were allowed to stay. So, trading post Decima was born, a tiny island in the harbor of Nagasaki in the deep south of Japan. From 1641 to 1859, this artificial, fan-shaped island of less than a hectare and a half was the only contact between the Western world and Japan, which was largely cut off from the outside world. The Dutch lived on Decima under strict restrictions. The small island (the size of Amsterdam's Dam Square) was accessible by only one bridge. Only a limited number (10 to 15) of Dutch people were allowed to stay on the island. With the exception of an annual visit to the shogun in Edo (present-day Tokyo), they were not allowed to leave their islet. In particular, the Netherlands imported gold, silver, copper, camphor, sake and soy. Everything changed when in 1853 an American fleet forced Japan to open further to the rest of the world.

Europe's best hikes and how to get there

Sun, 11 Jan 2026 18:38:00 GMT

Europe is a paradise for hikers. From alpine giants to sun-soaked coastal paths, the continent is packed with world-class trails that blend natural beauty, culture, and adventure. Whether you’re planning your next big trek or searching for a weekend escape, this guide covers the top 10 outdoor hikes in Europe , why each one belongs on your bucket list, and exactly how to reach them .

Tour du Mont Blanc (France, Italy & Switzerland)

Best for: Multi-day alpine adventure, Mont Blanc hike, best hikes in Europe, alpine trekking. The Tour du Mont Blanc (TMB) is often called Europe’s crown jewel of long-distance hikes. Spanning 170 km through France, Italy, and Switzerland, it offers glaciers, wildflower meadows, charming villages, and hearty mountain cuisine. It can be crowded in summer so make sure to book huts well in advance.

Why it’s worth it:

Classic Alpine scenery
Comfortable mountain huts
Three-country cultural experience

How to get there:
Fly into Geneva , then take a shuttle to Chamonix —the most common starting point.

Laugavegur Trail (Iceland)

Best for: Epic volcanic landscapes, Iceland hiking trails, Laugavegur trek, Iceland outdoor adventures. This otherworldly 55 km route delivers rainbow mountains, lava fields, geothermal vents, and black-sand deserts. Carry a good tent and sleeping bag as it can get chilly at night even in summer. Also take into account there’s camp sites but hardly any cabins to spend the night.

Why it’s worth it:

Unreal, Mars-like scenery
Natural hot springs
Well-marked, hut-supported route

How to get there:
From Reykjavík , catch a bus to Landmannalaugar , the trailhead.

Cinque Terre Coastal Trail (Italy)

Best for: Scenic coastal hiking, Cinque Terre hike, Italy coastal trails, easy hikes in Europe. The Sentiero Azzurro (Blue Trail) connects five pastel seaside villages along the Italian Riviera. It's one of Europe’s most iconic coastal walks.

Why it’s worth it:

Mediterranean views
Colorful cliffside towns
Fresh seafood and local wine

How to get there:
Train access is easy: travel from Pisa or Genoa to any Cinque Terre village.

GR twenty (Corsica, France)

Best for: Experienced trekkers seeking challenge, GR20 Corsica, toughest hikes Europe, long-distance trails. Known as “Europe’s toughest trek,” the GR20 spans Corsica’s rugged spine and delivers intense climbs and breathtaking views. There are cabins but they’re typically basic so don’t expect much luxury here. Camp sites are around and this is a great way of trekking to even with the extra weight.

Why it’s worth it:

Wild, remote terrain
Dramatic ridges and granite peaks
Serious adventure

How to get there:
Fly to Calvi , Ajaccio , or Bastia . Start in Calenzana near Calvi.

Alta Via uno, Dolomites (Italy)

Best for: Dramatic limestone mountain scenery, Dolomites hiking, Alta Via 1, best Italy hikes. The Alta Via 1 offers jaw-dropping limestone spires, turquoise lakes, and cozy mountain huts. It’s challenging but accessible to most hikers.

Why it’s worth it:

UNESCO-listed landscapes
Beautiful rifugio stays
Endless photography opportunities

How to get there:
Start at Lago di Braies . Fly into Venice or Innsbruck for easiest access.

West Highland Way (Scotland)

Best for: Moody landscapes & historic trails, West Highland Way, Scotland hiking, UK long-distance walks. From Glasgow to Fort William, this 154 km route is filled with lochs, open moors, and sweeping mountain views. There’s plenty of accommodation available - both shared dormitories as well as fine lodges. In the summer months the trail can get fairly busy and it makes sense to book accommodation ahead. Also beware of tiny midgets in the summer - they're tiny mosquitoes and leave itches, there are good sprays available along the trail though.

Why it’s worth it:

Classic Scottish scenery
Great for beginners and seasoned trekkers
Pub stops along the route

How to get there:
Take a suburban train from Glasgow to Milngavie , the starting point.

Vicentina – Fishermen’s Trail (Portugal)

Best for: Coastal cliffs and ocean views, Rota Vicentina, Portugal coastal hikes, Europe beach hikes. This cliff-top trail along Portugal’s Alentejo coast is a dream for ocean lovers.

Why it’s worth it:

Endless beaches and blue Atlantic views
Charming fishing villages
Perfect weather in spring and fall

How to get there:
Fly into Lisbon or Faro , then bus to Porto Covo or nearby towns.

Camino de Santiago (Spain)

Best for: Cultural immersion & long-distance pilgrimage. Camino de Santiago, Spanish pilgrimage, long-distance hikes Europe. The Camino isn’t just a hike—it’s a cultural journey with thousands of years of history. The famous French Way remains the most popular route while the version from Portugal passing by Porto all the way up to Santiago is going in popularity too.

Why it’s worth it:

Deep cultural and historical significance
Vibrant pilgrim community
Accessible accommodation

How to get there:
For the French Way, fly to Biarritz , Bilbao , or Pamplona and reach Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port .

Samaria Gorge (Crete, Greece)

Best for: Gorge trekking and sunny Mediterranean vibes, Samaria Gorge hike, Crete trails, best hikes in Greece. Walk through one of Europe’s longest gorges, with towering rock walls and pristine streams—ending at a village by the Libyan Sea.

Why it’s worth it:

Striking canyon walls
Unique wildlife
Perfect summer hike

How to get there:
Fly into Chania , then bus to Omalos .

Haute Route (France to Switzerland)

Best for: Challenging alpine trekking, Haute Route trek, Chamonix to Zermatt, high mountain hikes. This world-renowned trek links Mont Blanc with the Matterhorn across glaciers, alpine passes, and sweeping valleys. Huts and accommodation general isn’t very affordable so make sure to pick budget friendly options slightly out of town for instance.

Why it’s worth it:

Bucket-list mountain scenery
Challenging but rewarding terrain
Ends in Zermatt, home of the Matterhorn

How to get there:
Start in Chamonix , easily reached via shuttle from Geneva Airport .

Czech Republic

Sun, 04 Jan 2026 18:27:08 GMT

The Czech Republic, often called Czechia, is a landlocked country in Central Europe renowned for its stunning medieval architecture, fairy-tale castles, rolling countryside, and vibrant cultural scene. It's also the country where lager beer originated! Bordered by Germany, Austria, Slovakia, and Poland, it offers a mix of historic cities like Prague, charming towns, natural parks, and a rich brewing heritage. With a population of about 10.5 million, it's a safe, affordable destination that's easy to navigate. Whether you're into history, outdoor adventures, or wine tasting, Czechia has something for everyone. This guide covers everything from arrival to exploration, drawing on up-to-date information for 2026 travel.

Best Time to Visit

Czechia experiences four distinct seasons. The peak tourist season is May to September, with warm weather averaging 25°C (77°F) in summer—ideal for sightseeing and festivals, though Prague can get crowded in July and August. Shoulder seasons (March-May and September-October) offer milder temperatures around 14°C (59°F), fewer crowds, and opportunities for hiking or autumn foliage. Winter (December-February) brings snow, Christmas markets, and skiing, but expect cold snaps below freezing. For wellness retreats or wine tours, spring or fall is perfect. Avoid major holidays like Easter or Christmas if you prefer quieter visits.

How to Get There

Czechia is well-connected to the rest of Europe and beyond, with Prague serving as the main gateway.

- By Air: The primary international airport is Václav Havel Airport Prague (PRG), about 10 miles from the city center. Direct flights arrive from major European hubs (e.g., London, Paris, Berlin) via airlines like Ryanair, EasyJet, or Czech Airlines. From the US, expect connections through cities like Frankfurt or Amsterdam; non-stop options from New York or Chicago take about 8-10 hours. Budget around 5,000-15,000 CZK (200-600 USD) for round-trip economy from Europe, or 20,000-40,000 CZK (800-1,600 USD) from North America. From the airport, take the Airport Express bus (100 CZK, 30 minutes to city center), a taxi (500-700 CZK), or Uber. Smaller airports like Brno or Ostrava handle regional flights.

- By Train: Excellent for arrivals from neighboring countries. High-speed trains connect Prague to Vienna (4 hours, ~1,000 CZK), Berlin (4.5 hours, ~1,200 CZK), or Budapest (6.5 hours, ~900 CZK). Use services like České dráhy (Czech Railways) or international operators like ÖBB or Deutsche Bahn. Book via Trainline for discounts.

- By Bus: Affordable and frequent, with companies like FlixBus or RegioJet offering routes from Munich (5 hours, ~500 CZK), Warsaw (8 hours, ~800 CZK), or Bratislava (4 hours, ~400 CZK). Buses are comfortable with Wi-Fi and often cheaper than trains.

- By Car: If driving from abroad, highways from Germany (A6 to Prague) or Austria (A5) are well-maintained. You'll need a vignette (electronic toll sticker) for Czech motorways—about 310 CZK for 10 days. Border crossings are seamless within the Schengen Area.

Visa requirements: EU citizens need no visa. For non-EU visitors (e.g., US, Canada), enter visa-free for up to 90 days in the Schengen Zone. From October 2025, the EES (Entry/Exit System) will track entries digitally. Check for ETIAS pre-authorization if required by 2026.

How to Get Around

Czechia's transport network is efficient, affordable, and scenic, making it easy to explore beyond Prague.

- Public Transportation in Cities: Prague has an extensive metro, tram, and bus system (tickets: 30 CZK for 30 minutes, 120 CZK for 24 hours). Buy from machines or the PID app; validate tickets to avoid fines. Similar systems in Brno and other cities cost around 30 CZK per ride. Night services run in major areas.

- Trains: České dráhy operates a reliable network. Prague to Brno: 230 CZK, 2.5 hours; to Český Krumlov: ~300 CZK, 3 hours. Book in advance for discounts; student or senior deals available. Scenic routes through countryside are a highlight.

- Buses: Often cheaper than trains for shorter trips. Prague to Karlovy Vary: 280 CZK, 3 hours. Use BusBud or RegioJet for bookings.

- Car Rental: Ideal for rural areas. Rentals start at 450 CZK/day (international license required; age 21+). Drive on the right; speed limits are 50 km/h in towns, 130 km/h on highways. Parking in cities can be tricky—use apps like Parkopedia.

- Other Options: Domestic flights are rare and expensive (e.g., Prague-Brno ~3,300 CZK round-trip). Hitchhiking is safe but less common; rideshares via BlaBlaCar cost 200-500 CZK for intercity trips. Cycling is popular in flat areas—rent bikes for ~300 CZK/day.

For multi-day travel, consider a Czech Rail Pass (unlimited travel for 3-15 days, starting at 1,500 CZK) or Interrail/Eurail if combining with other countries.

Top Destinations and Attractions

Czechia boasts UNESCO sites, natural wonders, and cultural gems. Here's a curated list of must-sees:

Prague: The Heart of Czechia

The capital is a Gothic and Baroque masterpiece. Wander Old Town Square for the Astronomical Clock, cross Charles Bridge at dawn, and visit Prague Castle—the world's largest ancient castle complex.

Explore Jewish Quarter synagogues, climb Petrin Hill for views, or enjoy a river cruise on the Vltava. Don't miss the nightlife in beer gardens or clubs. Allow 3-4 days.

Český Krumlov: Fairy-Tale Town

A UNESCO-listed gem in South Bohemia with a Renaissance castle, winding river, and red-roofed buildings. Raft the Vltava, tour the Baroque theater, or hike nearby trails. 2 days recommended.

Moravian Wine Region

Near Brno, this area produces 90% of Czech wine. Visit Valtice Chateau cellars (tours 2,500-6,000 CZK) or cycle through vineyards. Pair with local cuisine like goulash.

Kutná Hora and Sedlec Ossuary

East of Prague, see the "Bone Church" decorated with 40,000 skeletons (200 CZK entry). The medieval silver mines and St. Barbara's Cathedral are highlights.

Bohemian Switzerland National Park

In North Bohemia, hike sandstone formations, gorges, and forests. Iconic spots include Pravčická Gate (Europe's largest natural bridge). Free entry; great for rock climbing.

Karlovy Vary: Spa Town

Famous for hot springs and colonnades. Sip mineral water, relax in spas, or attend the film festival. Day trip from Prague.

Other Highlights

- **Brno**: Modern vibe with Špilberk Castle and underground tours.

- **Olomouc**: Baroque fountains and the Holy Trinity Column (UNESCO).

- **Šumava National Park**: Lakes, forests, and hiking (free; camping available).

- **Pilsen**: Birthplace of pilsner beer; factory tours ~300 CZK.

- **Telč**: Renaissance square with colorful houses.

For history buffs, visit Terezín Memorial (former concentration camp) or Austerlitz Battlefield.

Suggested Itineraries

12-Day Trip by Public Transport

- Days 1-3: Prague exploration.

- Day 4: Day trip to Terezín.

- Days 5-6: Český Krumlov.

- Day 7: To Telč via Třeboň.

- Day 8: To Olomouc via Třebíč.

- Days 9-10: Olomouc, then back to Prague.

- Day 11: Kutná Hora side-trip.

- Day 12: Departure.

Two-Week Road Trip

- Days 1-3: Prague.

- Day 4: Terezín.

- Day 5: Konopiště Castle to Český Krumlov.

- Days 6-7: Český Krumlov and Třeboň to Slavonice.

- Day 8: Telč day trip.

- Days 9-10: Moravský Krumlov, Mikulov wine region, Lednice Château.

- Days 11-12: Olomouc and Kroměříž.

- Day 13: Kutná Hora back to Prague.

- Day 14: Departure.

These focus on key regions: Bohemia and Moravia. Customize for interests like hiking in Krkonoše Mountains or wine in South Moravia.

Food, Culture, and Experiences

Czech cuisine features hearty dishes: try svíčková (beef in cream sauce), knedlíky (dumplings), and trdelník pastries. Beer is king—sample Pilsner Urquell or Staropramen (50 CZK/pint). Festivals include Prague Spring Music or Karlovy Vary Film. Culturally, admire Art Nouveau by Alfons Mucha or puppet theaters. Shop for Bohemian crystal or garnet jewelry.

Practical Tips

- Currency: Czech Koruna (CZK); 1 USD ≈ 25 CZK. ATMs are widespread; cards accepted in cities, but carry cash for rural areas.

- Language: Czech is official; English common in tourist spots.

- Safety: One of the world's safest countries—low crime, but watch for pickpockets in crowds. Use common sense; solo travelers report positive experiences.

- Health: Tap water is safe. Get travel insurance covering activities like hiking.

- Connectivity: Free Wi-Fi in cafes; EU roaming applies.

- Sustainability: Use reusable bottles; opt for trains over cars.

Costs and Budgeting

Daily estimates (per person):

- Backpacker: 900-1,100 CZK (hostel, self-catering, public transport).

- Mid-range: 1,900 CZK (private room, some dining out, activities).

- Luxury: 3,500+ CZK (hotels, fine dining, rentals).

Save by eating local, using city passes (e.g., Prague Pass: 1,390 CZK for attractions), and booking transport early. Free walking tours are tip-based.

South Korea

Sat, 03 Jan 2026 08:30:39 GMT

Whereas Tokyo felt somewhat stiff, Seoul is bustling. All tourists I speak to agree: there is a pleasant vibe in the city. Half of the more than 50 million South Koreans live in metropolitan Seoul. The city itself is home to some 12 million souls. I almost forgot what it was like to see trash on the streets after Japan. The courtesy of letting people pass gives way to pushing. Koreans are also noisier. At first glance, Korea can be placed between Japan and China in terms of culture. Korea scores at least as high on many lists as eternal rival Japan. Seoul in particular is ultramodern, commercial, well organized and equipped with all sorts of technological gadgets. In restaurants, you often order on a tablet, are served by robots and cash is rarely involved. But the city buzzes, people are more approachable and less reserved than Japanese. The subway network is the most sophisticated I know. A vast intricate web. Thousands of subterranean carriages move back and forth nearly 20 hours a day. Around rush hour, not the slightest chance of sitting down. Sardines is putting it mildly; it's a lot of cramming and not everyone fits in. After a week in Seoul, I travel with two bags to the bus station over an hour away. After 20 minutes, an elderly man falls to the ground, hitting his head hard and is clearly knocked out. An immediate call is made, wagon is stopped and first aid is rendered. After a few minutes, the gentleman is hoisted upright and brought onto the platform. Meanwhile, the wagon has continued to fill up. Not much later we are moving again but I myself become faint and short of breath. The very first stop I want to get out with two bags but manage to get out with one only. The largest backpack travels on without me. A mini blackout. A moment later, a woman brings me my metro pass that I had also lost. Later that day, I tap the wrong PIN three times at an ATM. Fortunately, the bag is quickly retrieved; not that I would have any doubt about that. The question was not if but when. Dozens of camera images were immediately reviewed and calls made. Ten minutes later I can collect my bag 15 stations down the line. The bus has long left but that is of lesser concern. The express buses are great by the way; very spacious and you get (part of) your money back when you miss a bus. It seems there are cameras everywhere in Korea except in hotel rooms, bedrooms and toilets. Every square inch is carefully monitored. Security prevails over privacy. Camera images of suspects and wanted criminals are continuously repeated on TV. Naming and shaming, it is the method used to keep everyone in crowded Korea in line.

Meanwhile, in (South) Korea you find yourself in a country that has been at war with its northern neighbor for 70 years. A cease-fire was signed but never a peace treaty. In Seoul, just 30 kilometers from the border, subway stations serve as bomb shelters. Gas masks are widely available underground. On higher-end hotel rooms invariably a fold-out iron arm from which you can abseil down by cord. Although locals have gotten used to the provocations of their northern neighbors, the threat feels close through uncovered, clandestine tunnels. According to defectors (tens of thousands a year), there are more tunnels from which attacks can be made. North Korea was embarrassed after discovery of the tunnels, denied any involvement and had them painted black to pretend they served for coal mining purposes. We take a peek inside the tunnels, which were clearly not made for tall Europeans. With binoculars, we peer into the barren land of North Korea. Westerners find it particularly exciting to see anyone in this completely closed and isolated country. Little to nothing is known about daily life and problems in North Korea. Tourists are shown a biased picture under strict surveillance by two guides. Defectors tell a better, fairly disconcerting picture. Allegedly, the situation has been dire for years. Due to the economic sanctions, there is unprecedented poverty. Video recordings which have been smuggled out of the country show theft and dead people in the streets who are barely looked after. One of the few sources of revenue is providing construction services to unsavory regimes but also selling weapons and ammunition to Russia, Iran and Syria.

The border is the most heavily guarded one in the world. Yet many South Koreans are not preoccupied with any threat and prefer to get ahead in life. Although South Korean young men are subject to two years of compulsory military service, they make up for this time as quickly as possible by earning money and pursuing a career. There is little or no trust in reunification with their northern neighbors. Contrary to founder and former top executive of Hyundai. As a boy in the North, he tried fleeing from the countryside several times. After the war, he stayed behind in the South and founded one of the country's largest companies (chaebols). For millions of Koreans, the war was divisive and they never saw family members again. Retired, the former Hyundai top executive donated 1001 cows to North Korea on the border bridge (renamed "cow bridge"). It was not to be a round number, but the beginning of something new.

After WWII, Korea was split in two like Germany, a border was drawn at the 38th degree latitude. The decades before, all of Korea had been colonized by imperialist Japan. After the separation, the North launched a large-scale, brutal invasion in 1950. The South was completely overrun. What followed was a now (in the West) almost forgotten, horrific war with four million casualties. The newly formed UN came into action for the first time. Numerous countries, including the Netherlands, heeded the US call to join the fight. In fact, the war was mainly against China and Russia. A cultural battle, an ideological battle, an outsourced war. It's like the current Ukraine war. 4,500 Dutchmen enlisted. An adventure beckoned. Many had never heard of Korea, let alone knew where it was. 150 Dutchmen never returned.

The city dweller in the subway looks pale, coughs and sneezes from sitting indoors so much. Women in particular avoid the sun as much as possible. Hands in front of the face and lots of umbrellas, even on sun-drenched days! A white skin is the beauty ideal. There are even treatments and special creams for it. Like K-Pop and K-Drama, there is K-Beauty, being obsessively concerned with appearance. On every street corner there is a store selling skincare products and makeup from a major chain. But it goes further than that: Seoul is global "capital of cosmetic surgery”. In the Gangnam district streets full of billboards with ads from doctors in white coats. Most popular procedure? The double eyelid correction. Over 20% of young women have had one or are considering one. There is - unlike in Europe - absolutely no stigma about it. Recent graduates receive cosmetic surgery as a graduation gift. After all, you wish your daughter a smooth start into her career. Photos on resumes are mandatory and appearance - more than anywhere else - plays a decisive role in career success. This is because there is cutthroat competition for high-paying top jobs. The Asian crisis of the late 1990s is also to blame because the job market was thoroughly reformed in its wake and workers became less secure of their jobs.

Soccer coach Guus Hiddink is by far the best-known Dutch person in Korea. He owes this entirely to his feat with the national soccer team during the 2002 World Cup. Out of the blue, home country South Korea almost reached the final, but it was Germany - who else - who narrowly stopped them. They played good soccer, but they lacked confidence and belief. The team was also too nice on the pitch, too well mannered. Psychologist Hiddink forged a team, cultivated confidence and taught them the dirty tricks of soccer. The rest is history. People still talk about Hiddink with admiration; he is truly considered a hero who put Korea on the map as a soccer nation. Soccer, along with baseball, is the country's national sport. With the long American (military) presence, baseball came along. So did religion. Korea here differs quite a bit from other Asian countries. Half of Koreans are atheist (reunification should be feasible for that reason alone), over 30% Christian and 15% Buddhist.

Best electric vehicle (EV) destinations (Europe and Asia)

Fri, 02 Jan 2026 07:44:07 GMT

EUROPE — 7 top EV destinations

1. Norway – best overall EV destination

Norway has incentivized electrical vehicles for many years, including perks when it comes to parking among others. Roads are never quite boring in this country and there’s long stretches in tunnels underneath vast rock formations including futuristic roundabouts!

Why it’s great:

Highest EV adoption rate in the world
Reliable fast-charging along major tourist routes
Stunning fjords, mountains, national parks

Best for:
✔ Scenic road trips
✔ Nature-heavy holidays
✔ Long-distance EV travel
✔ Families & couples

2. Netherlands – best for easy, stress-free EV travel

It’s not hard to find charging stations in this country - as well as to rent electric vehicles from one of the many renting and sharing platforms. No worries about range anxiety in this compact, flat country too. Just make sure to avoid rush our traffic around the major cities if you don’t want to be stuck in slow moving traffic for a good hour or so.

Why it’s great:

Densest public charging network in Europe
Compact geography
Flat, easy roads with short distances between towns
EVs widely available at rental companies and sharing platforms

Best for:
✔ City hopping
✔ Weekend breaks
✔ Beginner EV travellers

3. Germany – best for efficiency + excellent highways

Why it’s great:

Major charging corridors on Autobahns
Lots of EV choices from rental agencies
Well-mapped charger networks
Mix of cities, medieval towns & countryside

Best for:
✔ Long-distance touring
✔ Multi-country European road trips
✔ Culture + nature combo itineraries

4. France – best for diverse landscapes + big tourism regions

Why it’s great:

Extensive public chargers, especially on autoroutes
Great EV suitability in regions like Provence, Loire Valley & Normandy
Hotels increasingly offer overnight charging

Best for:
✔ Wine routes
✔ Beach holidays
✔ Romantic trips

5. Sweden – best for northern nature road trips

Why it’s great:

Strong EV culture
Good coverage from cities up through central Sweden
Lakes, forests, wildlife-rich areas ideal for slow travel

Best for:
✔ Summer nature road trips
✔ Family holidays
✔ Slow-travel vacations

6. Austria – best for alpine driving

Why it’s great:

Plenty of chargers around cities and tourist villages
Hotels often provide easy charging
Perfect mix of scenic mountain routes + cultural cities

Best for:
✔ Alpine scenery
✔ Winter + summer trips
✔ City + mountain mix holidays

7. Belgium – best for compact, easy EV routes

Why it’s great:

Dense EV charging network
Short distances between major towns
Very EV-friendly for tourists

Best for:
✔ Cultural city breaks
✔ Couples’ weekend trips

ASIA — top 5 EV destinations

1. China – best overall EV destination in asia

Why it’s great:

World’s largest EV charging network
Many high-speed chargers on highways
EV rentals widely available
Great for city-to-city trips (Shanghai → Hangzhou, Shenzhen → Guangzhou)

Best for:
✔ Urban travel
✔ Scenic intercity routes
✔ High-tech travel experiences

2. South Korea – best for dense, reliable charging

Why it’s great:

One of the best charger-to-EV ratios globally
Fast-charger availability very strong in developed regions
Road quality excellent

Best for:
✔ Seoul + Busan + Jeju holiday circuits
✔ Short-to-medium EV road trips
✔ Tech-loving travellers

3. Japan – best for organized, predictable routes

Why it’s great:

Improving EV infrastructure
Predictable charging around major corridors
Popular for short scenic routes:
Tokyo → Hakone, Kyoto → Nara, Osaka → Wakayama

Best for:
✔ City + nature combos
✔ Short scenic drives
✔ First-time EV renters in Asia

4. Singapore + Malaysia – best for smooth, modern SE Asia EV travel

Why it’s great:

Singapore offers very dense charging & excellent EV rentals
Malaysia rapidly expanding fast chargers on main expressways
Easy, safe cross-border EV travel

Best for:
✔ Short-to-medium road trips
✔ Family holidays
✔ Beach + city mix trips

5. Thailand – best for city-based holidays with local EV travel

Why it’s great:

EV infrastructure growing rapidly in Bangkok, Chiang Mai, Phuket
Short-distance sightseeing is very EV-friendly
Ideal if you stay in popular regions

Best for:
✔ Island + city combos (with planning)
✔ Eco-friendly travellers
✔ Couples looking for easy urban EV use

Northern Vietnam — history, current economy, getting there & around

Thu, 01 Jan 2026 16:52:00 GMT

One of Asia’s most popular destinations and with good reason! Especially the last decade travellers have appreciated the vibrant Northern part of Vietnam , the great vibe and energy it represents along the cuisine and available activities in the region. The country is changing rapidly, it’s become a real manufacturing powerhouse. However many countryside destinations still offer a relaxed and authentic touch.

Quick logistics snapshot:

Main gateway: Hanoi (Noi Bai, HAN) . International flights from most Asian hubs and some European routes.
Currency: Vietnamese đồng (VND) . Cash still king outside big cities; cards increasingly accepted in Hanoi/Cat Ba/Ha Long hotels.
Best seasons: Autumn (Sept–Nov) and spring (Mar–Apr) for cool dry weather; winter (Dec–Feb) can be cold in the mountains (Sapa, Hà Giang). Summer is generally too hot in Vietnam and it’s mainly domestic tourism that flourishes then. December and January are great months to be in Hanoi as the temperates tend to be relatively milder.
Entry: most nationalities need a visa or an e-visa (up to 90 days depending on nationality/route) — check the official e-visa portal. ( evisa.gov.vn )

Recent history & why it matters for travellers

Northern Vietnam ’s modern shape is the product of colonialism, war/partition and a dramatic economic pivot known as Đổi Mới (market-oriented reforms begun in 1986). That pivot transformed Vietnam from an isolated, centrally-planned economy into a rapidly growing manufacturing and export hub — and it’s changed infrastructure, hospitality, and what you’ll see on the ground (new airports, domestic flight routes, hotel development, rising FDI and local conglomerates investing in tourism and mobility).

What this means for travellers:

Better international and domestic connectivity (more flights, expanded e-visa access).
Rapid tourism growth: strong bounce-back since pandemic, more options (cruises, boutique treks, “luxury sleeper” trains) but also crowding at major sites like Hạ Long.
Investment and development bring improved hotels and services — but also pressure on heritage sites and local ecosystems (so responsible tourism matters).

Regions & what to expect

Hanoi — gateway & cultural core

A 1,000-year city of lakes, French colonial architecture and the Old Quarter’s street-level life. Food scene is world-class for street eats and cafés; ride-hail apps and taxis are convenient in the city. Allow 2–3 days if you want museums (Temple of Literature, Ho Chi Minh Mausoleum), street food and a day trip to the surrounding craft villages.

Hạ Long Bay & Cat Ba

Limestone karsts and cruising are the area’s main draw. Choose responsible operators (small boats, clear waste policies) and be prepared that this UNESCO landscape is heavily touristed; overnight cruises are popular.

Ninh Bình (Tam Cốc / Tràng An)

“Halong on land” — river boats through rice paddies and cliffs, excellent for biking and a quieter alternative to Ha Long.

Sapa & Lào Cai (northwest)

Highland rice terraces, ethnic minority villages (Hmong, Dao, Tay). Access: overnight trains from Hanoi to Lao Cai, or buses; trekking from Sapa town. Mountain weather can be harsh in winter. Book reputable trekking groups and prefer local guides. If you’re fit and into hiking, try summiting the Fansipan - SE Asia’s highest mountain.

Hà Giang & the Loop

Remote winding mountain roads, dramatic vistas and minority cultures — more adventurous, less infrastructure than Sapa, and best for motorbike/self-drive or a guided loop. Road quality can vary; hire experienced drivers/guides. Enjoy some of the ‘happy water’ in the evenings.

How to get there

International — fly to Hanoi (Noi Bai)

Most international visitors fly into Noi Bai International Airport (HAN) . There are direct flights from many Asian hubs and seasonal/limited European links; Vietnam Airlines, VietJet, Bamboo Airways and foreign carriers operate routes. Check schedules/availability and seasonal routes.

Overland from neighbouring countries

There are international bus and rail links from China/Laos/Cambodia but these routes require up-to-date visa and border-crossing checks — consult embassies and the e-visa portal in advance. ( evisa.gov.vn )

How to get around northern Vietnam

Domestic flights

Fastest for reaching far north (Điện Biên Phủ) or linking Hanoi to other regions; multiple low-cost carriers like VietJet or Bamboo operate domestic schedules. Good for saving time on short itineraries.

Trains

Hanoi ↔ Lao Cai (Sapa) overnight sleepers are comfortable and very popular — book early in high season or festive periods. Trains are slower than planes but provide a scenic, relaxed option.

Long-distance buses / sleeper coaches

Extensive network and usually cheapest option to places like Ha Giang, Sapa, Ninh Binh. Quality varies; choose reputable operators (comfortable sleepers for overnight trips).

Car hire & private transfers

Common for groups; a driver is recommended because mountain roads can be narrow and local driving styles differ.

Motorbikes

Freedom and access to loops (Hà Giang) — but there are real risks: mountain roads, variable weather and insurance/legal complexities. Only attempt if experienced; otherwise hire a local driver or guided tour with a professional rider.

Boats & ferries

Used for Hạ Long, Cat Ba and river trips in Ninh Bình. Check operator safety records and vessel licensing.

Local last-mile

Grab (ride-hail app), metered taxis and cyclos (in Hanoi as a novelty) are standard; many travellers also use motorbike taxis for short hops.

Practicalities & tips

Visa & entry

Most travelers must secure a visa or e-visa — the official portal is the authoritative source. Visa-exemption lists exist for some countries; rules change, so verify before booking. ( evisa.gov.vn )

Costs & tipping

Northern Vietnam is affordable compared to Western standards. Expect low prices for street food and budget hotels; mid-range and luxury options are growing. Tipping isn’t mandatory but appreciated in tourist services.

Health & safety

Tap water: don’t drink untreated tap water. Use bottled or filtered water.
Altitude & cold: mountain areas (Sapa, Hà Giang) can be significantly colder; bring layers.
Road safety: be cautious with motorbikes; helmets are legally required and essential for safety.

Responsible travel

Respect ethnic minority communities — ask before photographing and prefer purchases from community-run co-operatives.
Choose eco-conscious Halong operators and avoid single-use plastics on boat trips. Heritage area management is a live issue; your choices affect local conservation.

Economic context that affects travel choices

Tourism rebound & capacity growth: Vietnam’s tourism has rebounded strongly since the pandemic, with millions of international arrivals in 2024–2025 — more flights, hotels and tour options, but also crowding at popular sites. Plan and book ahead in peak months.
Manufacturing & FDI-led growth: Northern provinces (and Vietnam overall) have seen sustained FDI and export growth, lifting infrastructure investment and urban development — expect new airports, better roads and more private tourism investment (hotels, transport). This is a reason you’ll find higher-end options increasingly available outside just Hanoi.
Macro risks: Global trade shifts and occasional tariffs or floods can affect seasonal travel flows; always have flexible bookings during rainy season and watch local news for weather warnings.

Suggested sample itineraries

5 days (fast): Hanoi (2 days) → Ha Long Bay day + overnight cruise (2 days) → return to Hanoi.
8–10 days (balanced): Hanoi → Ninh Bình (2 days) → Ha Long / Cat Ba (2 days) → train to Sapa (2–3 days trekking) → back to Hanoi.
14+ days (explorer): Add Hà Giang loop, Điện Biên Phủ, and deeper cultural stays in minority villages — more transport time but spectacular landscapes.

Poland, convenient and upcoming destination

Wed, 31 Dec 2025 11:34:47 GMT

Poland is a country where medieval cities, dramatic history, natural beauty, and modern culture come together. Located in Central Europe, Poland offers travelers an affordable, safe, and richly rewarding experience—from fairy-tale old towns and UNESCO World Heritage sites to mountain trails, Baltic beaches, and vibrant nightlife. Poland has developed strongly economically in the last decade. It’s Europe’s fifth largest populated country and has a very solid manufacturing industry. Particularly food processing as well as packaging and there are many small & midsized logistical companies. Tourism is on the rise but still lagging behind the Czech republic or Austria. Poland is part of the European Union and the Schengen Area , making it easy to combine with trips to neighboring countries like Germany, Czechia, Slovakia, and Lithuania. Summer tends to be the favorite time to visit the country.

Best Time to Visit

Spring (April–June): Mild weather, blooming parks, fewer crowds
Summer (July–August): Warmest season, festivals, outdoor cafés (busiest time)
Autumn (September–October): Beautiful fall colors, cooler temperatures
Winter (December–February): Snowy landscapes, Christmas markets, ski season in the south Ideal for most travelers: May–June or September

Top Destinations

Kraków – Cultural Capital

One of Europe’s most beautiful historic cities. Especially in summer it’s very welcoming and pleasant although it can be hot. It tends to be very touristy as well. Use Guruwalk or Getyourguide to book walking tours and learn more about the city.

Highlights:

Rynek Główny (Europe’s largest medieval square)
Wawel Castle and Cathedral
Kazimierz (historic Jewish Quarter)
Nearby Auschwitz-Birkenau Memorial
Wieliczka Salt Mine (UNESCO site)

Best for: History lovers, culture, architecture

Warsaw – Modern & Historic

Poland’s capital blends resilience and reinvention. The city has developed a lot in the past decade and is no longer very affordable - but there’s a rich, diverse restaurant offering.

Highlights:

Old Town (meticulously reconstructed after WWII)
Royal Castle
Łazienki Park & Palace on the Water
POLIN Museum of the History of Polish Jews
Thriving food, bar, and music scenes

Best for: Museums, modern culture, city life

Gdańsk – Baltic Beauty

A colorful port city with maritime heritage.

Highlights:

Long Market (Długi Targ)
Neptune’s Fountain
Amber Museum
WWII Museum
Nearby beaches in Sopot and Gdynia (Tri-City area)

Best for: Coastal charm, history, relaxed pace

Zakopane & Tatra Mountains

Poland’s mountain escape near the Slovak border.

Highlights:

Hiking in Tatra National Park
Morskie Oko alpine lake
Traditional wooden architecture
Skiing in winter
Highland (Górale) culture and food

Best for: Nature, hiking, skiing

Wrocław – City of Bridges & Dwarfs

A lively city with a whimsical side. It’s also a large student university city with a very low unemployment rate. This is also thanks to several multinational companies having set up activities near the city. It’s well connected to Berlin and Prague.

Highlights:

Market Square
Ostrów Tumski (Cathedral Island)
Over 100 small dwarf statues hidden around the city
Vibrant student atmosphere

Best for: Photography, nightlife, charm

Poznań – Birthplace of Poland

Historic and youthful.

Highlights:

Renaissance Old Town
Town Hall goats show at noon
Strong food scene
Important early Polish history

Natural Attractions

Białowieża Forest: Europe’s last primeval forest, home to wild bison
Masurian Lake District: Kayaking, sailing, peaceful countryside
Baltic Sea Coast: Sandy beaches, dunes (Łeba, Świnoujście)
Ojców National Park: Cliffs, caves, castles near Kraków

Polish Cuisine: What to Eat

Polish food is hearty, comforting, and flavorful.

Must-try dishes:

Pierogi (dumplings)
Bigos (hunter’s stew)
Żurek (sour rye soup)
Kotlet schabowy (breaded pork cutlet)
Gołąbki (stuffed cabbage rolls)
Oscypek (smoked mountain cheese)

Desserts:

Pączki (Polish doughnuts)
Sernik (cheesecake)
Makowiec (poppy seed cake)

Drinks:

Polish vodka (Żubrówka, Chopin)
Craft beer (rapidly growing scene)

Getting Around

Transportation

Trains: Reliable, affordable, extensive network. The fast train between Krakow and Warsaw is a breeze and very convenient.
Buses: Often cheaper, good for smaller towns. The connections with Flixbus between the major cities are excellent and affordable.
Domestic Flights: Limited but useful for long distances
Car Rental: Ideal for countryside exploration

Cities

Walkable city centers
Excellent public transport (trams, buses, metro in Warsaw)

Costs & Budget

Poland is one of Europe’s best-value destinations .

Approximate daily budget:

Budget traveler: €40–60
Mid-range traveler: €70–120
Luxury traveler: €150+

Meals, accommodations, and attractions are generally cheaper than Western Europe.

Language & Communication

Language: Polish
English widely spoken among younger people and in tourist areas
Learning basic phrases is appreciated:
Dzień dobry – Hello
Dziękuję – Thank you
Proszę – Please / You’re welcome

Safety & Practical Tips

Very safe for travelers
Watch for pickpockets in crowded tourist areas
Currency: Polish Złoty (PLN) (not Euro)
Cards widely accepted
Tipping: Optional but appreciated (5–10%)

Cultural Etiquette

Dress modestly in churches
Remove hats indoors
Poles may seem reserved initially but are warm and helpful
Respect historical sites, especially WWII memorials

In short, why Visit Poland?

Poland offers:

Deep and moving history
Stunning architecture
Diverse landscapes
Authentic culture
Excellent value for money

Jordan, an up to date travel guide

Sat, 27 Dec 2025 20:40:00 GMT

Jordan is a captivating Middle Eastern gem that blends ancient history, stunning natural landscapes, and warm hospitality. From the rose-red city of Petra to the otherworldly deserts of Wadi Rum and the buoyant waters of the Dead Sea, it's a destination that rewards adventurers, history buffs, and relaxation seekers alike. With a rich cultural tapestry influenced by Nabateans, Romans, and Bedouins, Jordan offers immersive experiences like hiking ancient trails, floating in mineral-rich seas, or savoring aromatic spices in bustling souks. As of late 2025, tourism is rebounding strongly, with improved infrastructure and eco-friendly initiatives in places like the Dana Biosphere Reserve. This guide covers everything you need for a memorable trip, including practical tips on arrival and navigation.

Best Time to Visit

Jordan's climate varies by region, but the ideal windows are spring (March to May) and autumn (September to November) when temperatures are mild (15-25°C/59-77°F), perfect for exploring outdoors without the summer heat (up to 40°C/104°F) or winter chills (down to 5°C/41°F). Summer suits beach time in Aqaba, while winter is great for cultural sites with fewer crowds—though pack layers for evenings. Avoid Ramadan if possible, as services may be limited, but it's a fascinating time for cultural immersion. Shoulder seasons offer the best balance of weather, affordability, and availability at popular spots like Petra.

How to Get There

Jordan is accessible by air, land, or sea, with Amman as the primary gateway.

By Air

The main international airport is Queen Alia International Airport (AMM) in Amman, about 30km south of the city. It's served by major carriers like Royal Jordanian, Emirates, Qatar Airways, and budget options like Ryanair from Europe. Direct flights from the US (e.g., New York to Amman) take about 11-12 hours; from Europe (London), 5 hours; from Asia (Dubai), 3 hours. This airport is very modern and comfortable. It will be however about an hour drive to get into Amman. King Hussein International Airport (AQJ) in Aqaba handles low-cost and charter flights, ideal for Red Sea vacations. As of 2025, flight frequencies have increased post-pandemic, with fares starting at $300 round-trip from Europe. Book in advance for deals, and consider the Jordan Pass for bundled entry fees.

By Land

Jordan shares borders with Israel/Palestine (via Allenby/King Hussein Bridge, Yitzhak Rabin/Wadi Araba, or Sheikh Hussein crossings), Saudi Arabia (open but visa-restricted), Syria (often closed due to instability—avoid), and Iraq (limited and not recommended for tourists). Crossings from Israel are popular; expect fees (e.g., 10 JOD exit tax) and potential delays. Buses or taxis connect borders to cities.
By Sea

Aqaba Port welcomes ferries from Egypt (Nuweiba or Taba), taking 3-4 hours. Services run sporadically, so check schedules; it's a scenic option for Red Sea travelers.

Visa and Entry Requirements

Most visitors need a visa, valid for 30 days. Citizens of over 100 countries (including the US, EU, Canada, Australia) can get a visa on arrival at airports or borders for 40 JOD ($56 USD), payable in cash or card. Your passport must be valid for at least six months beyond your stay, with one blank page. The Jordan Pass (from 70 JOD) waives the visa fee if you stay at least three nights and includes entry to 40+ sites like Petra. E-visas are available online for some nationalities. No COVID restrictions as of 2025, but check for updates. Restricted nationalities (e.g., some Asian or African countries) must apply in advance at a Jordanian embassy.

How to Get Around

Jordan's compact size (about the size of Indiana) makes it navigable, but public transport is limited outside cities. Plan for a mix of options based on your itinerary.

Car Rental

The most flexible choice for independent travel. Roads are well-maintained, with highways connecting Amman to Petra (3 hours) or Aqaba (4 hours). Rent from international chains like Hertz or local firms at airports (from 20 JOD/day). An international driving permit isn't always required, but your home license must be at least one year old; drive on the right. Fuel is affordable (around 1 JOD/liter), and GPS apps like Google Maps work well. Avoid night driving in rural areas due to poor lighting. Overall, getting around by car is by far your best option to explore Jordan. The roads are straightforward, most rental companies are decent and within a week can you easily cover the main spots in the country. In general, it’s good to take into account that Jordan is not a very affordable destination and much more expensive than for instance Morocco or Egypt .

Buses and Shared Taxis

JETT buses offer comfortable, air-conditioned services between major cities (e.g., Amman to Petra: 10 JOD, 3.5 hours; daily at 6:30 AM). Minibuses (from southern stations like Mujamaa Janoobi) are cheaper (8 JOD) but depart when full. Shared taxis (servees) ply fixed routes for 1-5 JOD per segment—bargain and confirm prices. For Wadi Rum, take a bus to Aqaba then a taxi (20-25 JOD).

Taxis and Ride-Hailing

Yellow taxis are metered (start at 0.25 JOD) but negotiate for longer trips. Uber and Careem operate in Amman and Aqaba (fares 5-10 JOD for city rides). Private taxis for intercity (e.g., Amman to Dead Sea: 30 JOD) are convenient but pricier.

Trains and Other

There is essentially no train network in Jordan. Hitchhiking is possible in rural areas but not recommended for safety. Cycling or walking suits short distances in cities or trails like the Jordan Trail.

For multi-stop trips, consider organized tours or drivers (100-150 JOD/day) to avoid hassles.

Top Destinations

Jordan's highlights span history, nature, and adventure. A 7-10 day itinerary: Start in Amman (2 days), head to Jerash/Madaba (day trip), Petra (2-3 days), Wadi Rum (1-2 days), Dead Sea (1 day), and end in Aqaba (2 days).

- Amman : The bustling capital mixes modern vibes with ancient ruins. Visit the Citadel for panoramic views, the Roman Theater, and Rainbow Street for cafes and street art. Downtown souks offer spices and souvenirs. Especially the local markets (souks) are dynamic and entertaining. The food is overall also diverse and very tasty. Amman is however not a city to linger around for too long, the country simply has much more to offer. It’s also fairly busy with cars and traffic. Typically, Amman would be the start and ending point of your trip.

- Petra : A UNESCO wonder, this 2,000-year-old Nabatean city features the Treasury, Monastery, and Siq gorge. Enter early to beat crowds; hike the 800 steps to the Monastery for views. Petra by Night (candlelit) is magical. Base in Wadi Musa; entry via Jordan Pass (50-60 JOD for 1-3 days). The ticket is worth every penny, there’s nothing overstated about Petra. It’s a magical place. Read about how it was discovered by a Swiss explorer and how the local tribes would become wealthy by the trade in incense. The hiking trails are fantastic and especially entering the site through the ‘backdoor’ and making your way to the front entrance is totally worth it. When there’s less crowds the locals can become a little pushy offering their services but just don’t waste your time on haggling with them. In terms of accommodation, there’s plenty of options and dozens of hotels and guesthouses in the village. Many are overrated and if you don’t mind driving or hiking two kilometers into town away from the entry you’ll get a relaxed guesthouse at half the price.

- Wadi Rum : This vast desert, a UNESCO site, evokes Mars with red sands and rock formations. Join 4WD jeep tours (20-50 JOD), camel rides, or overnight in Bedouin camps under stars. Hike or hot-air balloon for thrills.

- Dead Sea : Float effortlessly in the saltiest body of water on Earth. Resorts offer mud treatments and spas; public beaches like Amman Beach (12 JOD entry). Combine with nearby Madaba's mosaics and Mount Nebo's biblical vistas. Make sure you’ve got no tiny open wounds or scratches on your skin as this will irritate seriously and can ruin your time floating around in this marvelous place!

- Aqaba : Jordan's Red Sea port town boasts coral reefs for snorkeling/diving (certified sites like Japanese Garden). Relax on beaches, visit the aquarium, or day-trip to Wadi Rum. Great for winter sun.

- Other Gems : Jerash for Greco-Roman ruins (like a mini-Pompeii), Ajloun Castle and Forest Reserve for hikes, Dana Biosphere for eco-adventures, and Umm Qais for Ottoman villages and views over the Sea of Galilee. Madaba about an hour south of Amman is also worth a visit. It’s an old crossroads city with Roman ruins in the centre and the city is known to have a relatively larger Christian population. The food - like mostly in Jordan - is very tasty and there are some great cuisines that blend middle eastern dishes.

Food and Culture

Jordanian cuisine is flavorful and communal. Try mansaf (lamb in yogurt sauce with rice), maqluba (upside-down rice dish), falafel, hummus, and mezze platters. Street food like shawarma is cheap (2-5 JOD). Bedouin zarb (underground barbecue) is a Wadi Rum highlight. Drink sweet mint tea or Arabic coffee—offering it is a sign of hospitality.

Culturally, Jordanians are welcoming; greet with "Salaam alaikum." Modest dress is appreciated, especially at religious sites (cover shoulders/knees). Ramadan involves fasting; respect by not eating or smoking publicly. Women travelers report feeling safe, but solo females should use common sense. English is widely spoken in tourist areas.

Accommodations

Options range from budget hostels in Amman (10-20 JOD/night) to luxury resorts at the Dead Sea (200+ JOD). Eco-lodges in Dana, glamping in Wadi Rum (50-100 JOD with meals), and mid-range hotels in Petra/Aqaba (50-150 JOD). For authenticity, try homestays in villages.

Safety and Practical Tips

Jordan is generally safe for tourists, with low crime rates, but stay vigilant in crowds against pickpocketing. Avoid border areas with Syria/Iraq and check travel advisories for protests in Amman. Women: Dress conservatively to avoid attention. Health: Drink bottled water; no major risks, but get hepatitis A/B vaccines. Currency: Jordanian Dinar (1 JOD ≈ 1.41 USD); ATMs widespread, cards accepted in cities. SIM cards (Zain/Orange) for data are cheap (5 JOD). Tipping: 10% in restaurants, 1-2 JOD for services. Download offline maps and learn basic Arabic phrases.

Budget Tips

A budget trip costs 50-80 JOD ($70-110 USD) per day, covering hostels, street food, buses, and site entries (Jordan Pass saves money). Mid-range: 100-200 JOD/day with hotels and taxis. Splurge on tours (e.g., hot-air balloon in Wadi Rum: 150 JOD). Bargain in markets, eat local, and travel off-peak for deals. Jordan's magic lies in its contrasts—plan well, respect the culture, and you'll leave with unforgettable stories.

Azores - the ultimate guide

Thu, 25 Dec 2025 08:45:00 GMT

The Azores , an autonomous region of Portugal , is a stunning archipelago of nine volcanic islands scattered in the mid-Atlantic Ocean, about 1,500 km west of Lisbon and roughly 2,400 km from New York. Often called the "Hawaii of Europe" for its dramatic landscapes, lush greenery, crater lakes, hot springs, and volcanic peaks, the islands offer a mix of adventure, relaxation, and cultural immersion. Divided into three groups—Eastern (São Miguel, Santa Maria), Central (Terceira, Pico, Faial, São Jorge, Graciosa), and Western (Flores, Corvo)—each island has its own unique character, from São Miguel's verdant hills and tea plantations to Pico's towering volcano and UNESCO-listed vineyards. With a mild subtropical climate, biodiverse ecosystems (including 10% protected reserves), and activities like whale watching, hiking, and thermal bathing, the Azores appeal to nature lovers, hikers, and eco-tourists seeking an off-the-beaten-path European destination.

The islands blend Portuguese heritage with island-specific traditions, such as colorful festivals and volcanic-influenced cuisine, while emphasizing sustainable tourism.

How to Get There

Reaching the Azores is primarily by air, as there are no regular ferries from mainland Europe or elsewhere. The main gateway is João Paulo II Airport (PDL) in Ponta Delgada on São Miguel , the largest and most connected island. Direct flights operate from major European hubs like Lisbon, Porto, London, Frankfurt, and increasingly from North American cities such as Boston (about 4.5 hours), New York (5.5 hours), Toronto, and Montreal via airlines like Azores Airlines (SATA), TAP Air Portugal, Ryanair, and EasyJet. From the U.S., connections often go through Lisbon or Porto, but direct options from the East Coast are expanding, especially in peak season (June-September). Other key airports include Lajes (TER) on Terceira and Horta (HOR) on Faial, but most international arrivals land on São Miguel.

U.S. and EU citizens can enter visa-free for up to 90 days with a valid passport (at least six months validity recommended). Customs at PDL is efficient, typically 30-45 minutes, with separate lanes for EU and non-EU travelers. Book flights in advance using tools like Skyscanner for the best deals, and consider flexibility with dates for off-peak savings. Cruise ships occasionally dock, but they're not a reliable entry method. You cannot bring motorhomes or camper vans via ferry from the continent.

How to Get Around

Between Islands

Island-hopping is essential for a full experience, and options include flights and ferries. Domestic flights via SATA Air Açores connect all nine islands, with more frequent routes between the central group (Terceira, Pico, Faial) and São Miguel. Flights are quick (e.g., 30-45 minutes between close islands) but can face delays due to weather—opt for morning departures. Book early, especially in summer.

Ferries, operated by Atlânticoline, are cheaper and scenic but slower and seasonal (more routes in summer, year-round for central islands like Faial-Pico-São Jorge). Common trips include Pico to Faial (30 minutes) or Terceira to São Miguel (longer voyages). Check schedules on atlanticoline.pt, as weather can cancel services. Ferries don't run from the continent, and not all islands have direct connections.

On the Islands

Renting a car is highly recommended for flexibility, as public transport is limited. Cars start at €30/day (manual transmissions common; request automatic in advance), available at airports from companies like Rent a Car or Azores Easy Rent. Roads are well-maintained but narrow and winding, with potential fog or rain—drive cautiously. Public buses operate on larger islands like São Miguel (check saomiguelbus.com) and Terceira, connecting towns for €1-3, but they're infrequent, not very reliable and don't reach remote spots. Taxis are available in urban areas but pricey for long trips. On smaller islands, organized tours, scooters, or bicycles work well; hitchhiking is safe but not always reliable in rural areas.

Best Time to Visit

The Azores' mild climate makes it year-round accessible, with temperatures ranging from 16°C (61°F) in winter to 25°C (77°F) in summer. The peak season (July-August) brings the warmest weather and events but also crowds and 30-50% higher prices. Shoulder seasons (April-June, September-October) offer pleasant conditions, fewer tourists, and activities like whale watching (spring) or wine harvests (fall). Winter (November-March) is rainier but milder than mainland Europe, ideal for budget travelers. Pack layers and rain gear for microclimates and sudden changes. Key events include Holy Spirit Festivals (May-September), Pico Wine Harvest (September), and Terceira's bull runs (summer).

Overview of the Main Islands

- São Miguel (Green Island): The largest and most developed, with Ponta Delgada as the capital. Highlights include Sete Cidades twin lakes, Furnas hot springs, Lagoa do Fogo, tea plantations, and over 30 hiking trails. Perfect for first-timers. From Lisbon and Porto there are very affordable flights with among others Ryanair. Ponta Delgado is the main airport on the islands and directly at the airport there is abundant choice for car rentals - which is a must to get around the island! The city of Ponta Delgado itself is a charming laid back old colonial town. There’s everything you need and plenty of choice of accommodation. It can function well as a base to explore the island because whichever direction you go it’s not more than an hour to reach the end of the island. However - staying overnight in remote areas can be a lot more charming and this would also be recommended if you’re visiting the islands anyway. Make sure to book a walking tour in Ponta Delgada with for instance guruwalk to learn more about the history of the islands and the city.

Must do’s on the island of São Miguel are the Sete Cidade hike which involves hiking around several craters and stunning views over the Atlantic. Also make sure to visit Europe’s oldest tea plantation Gorreana Tea! You can visit the small factory as well as the stunning plantations. Then accross the island there are the so called ‘piscina natural’ which are essentially outdoor pools in the Atlantic protected by a layer of rocks. Make sure to bring flip flops.

In the city of Ponta Delgada there’s also a cute botanical garden with a must go to brunch restaurant.

- Terceira (Lilac Island): Rich in history with UNESCO-listed Angra do Heroísmo, volcanic caves like Algar do Carvão, natural pools, and lively festivals including bull runs. Great for culture and easy hikes.

- Pico (Grey Island): Dominated by Mount Pico (2,351m, Portugal's highest peak—summit hike is strenuous but rewarding), UNESCO vineyards on volcanic soil, whale watching, and lava tubes. Ideal for adventurers and wine enthusiasts.

- Faial (Blue Island): Known for hydrangea fields, Horta's marina (famous for sailors' paintings), Capelinhos volcano, and black-sand beaches. A yachting hub with volcanic hikes.

- Flores (Pink Island): Remote and UNESCO Biosphere Reserve, featuring waterfalls, crater lakes, dramatic cliffs, and top hiking trails like Poço da Alagoinha. Best for nature immersion and canyoning.

- Santa Maria (Yellow Island): Sunniest with natural white-sand beaches, diving spots like Gruta Azul, and a relaxed vibe.

- Other Islands: São Jorge for cliffs and cheese, Graciosa for white rocks and hot springs, Corvo (smallest) for its caldera and birdwatching.

Top Things to Do

- Hiking and Nature: Over 60 marked trails across islands, from São Miguel's Sete Cidades (13 miles) to Flores' Great Route or Pico's summit (7-8 hours). Free and varied difficulty levels.

- Whale Watching and Marine Activities: Spot 27 cetacean species (98% success rate) from Pico or São Miguel; best April-August. Also diving (shipwrecks, manta rays), surfing, kayaking, and paragliding.

- Volcanic Wonders: Soak in hot springs at Furnas or Terra Nostra Park, explore caves like Algar do Carvão, or visit crater lakes.

- Cultural Experiences: Tour UNESCO sites like Angra do Heroísmo, join festivals (e.g., Holy Ghost with communal soups), visit whaling museums, or learn pottery.

- Culinary Tours: Sample tea plantations on São Miguel, wine tastings on Pico (Verdelho from volcanic soil), or cozido das Furnas (stew cooked underground by geothermal heat).

Suggested Itineraries:

- 5-7 Days: Focus on São Miguel for highlights like lakes, hot springs, and whale watching.

- 10 Days: Add Terceira for history and Pico for hiking.

- 14+ Days: Island-hop to 4-5 islands, including Flores for remote adventures.

Accommodations:

Options range from budget hostels (€30-50/dorm) to luxury resorts (€300+). São Miguel has the most variety, including eco-resorts like Santa Barbara Eco-Beach Resort (black-sand beach, infinity pool) or Octant Furnas (thermal access). On Pico, try Lava Homes (rustic cottages with ocean views) or Pocinho Bay (vineyard setting). Book 3-4 months ahead for peak season; camping is affordable (€0-10) on some islands like Flores. Mid-range daily: €80-120.

Food and Drink

Azorean cuisine highlights fresh Atlantic seafood (grilled fish, lapas limpets), volcanic-cooked stews like cozido das Furnas or Alcatra (Terceira beef stew), local cheeses (Queijo de São Jorge), pineapples, and soups. Pico's wines from basalt-walled vineyards and São Miguel's tea are must-tries. Dine at spots like A Tasca in Ponta Delgada (fresh fish, stews) or Cais 20 in São Roque (seafood rice). Budget meals: €10-25; beer €1+, wine extensive. Join cooking classes or vineyard tours for immersion.

Practical Tips

- Budget: Daily €70-100 (including car, food, lodging); add for tours (€60-80) or multi-island travel.

- Essentials: Euro (€) currency (1 USD ≈ 0.92 EUR); ATMs in towns, cards widely accepted. English spoken in tourist areas; basic Portuguese helps rurally. Download offline maps; WiFi in hotels/cafes, spotty in remote spots. Local SIM €10-15.

- Packing: Layers, rain jacket, sturdy shoes for hikes; headlamp for caves.

- Sustainability: Respect protected areas; use eco-tours.

- Health/Safety: Low crime, high safety; get travel insurance for activities (e.g., Safety Wing). Natural hazards like riptides—use guides. Emergency: 112. Pharmacies in towns; mild weather but prepare for rain.

Slovenia - lovely Alpine mountain destination

Mon, 22 Dec 2025 09:12:00 GMT

Slovenia , a compact European gem nestled between the Alps, the Adriatic Sea, and the Pannonian Plain, offers a diverse mix of stunning landscapes, vibrant cities, and rich cultural heritage. Bordering Italy, Austria, Hungary, and Croatia, it's known for its emerald rivers, alpine peaks, medieval towns, and UNESCO-listed sites. With a population of about 2 million, Slovenia is eco-friendly, safe, and affordable, making it ideal for nature lovers, adventure seekers, and cultural explorers. Its capital, Ljubljana, blends historic charm with modern vibrancy, while highlights like Lake Bled and the Soča Valley showcase its natural beauty. As of 2025, tourism continues to grow, emphasizing sustainable practices. The country is obsessed with sports, exercising in the great outdoors is very much a national hobby. And who doesn’t know world’s greatest cyclist Tadej Pogacar? He learned the ropes in his mountainous home country. Soccer and ski jumping are also popular. For visitors hiking is lovely and there’s so many trails in the forests or higher up in the Julian Alps.

Best Time to Visit

Slovenia is a year-round destination, but the ideal time depends on your interests. Spring (April-June) brings mild weather (15-25°C/59-77°F), blooming landscapes, and fewer crowds, perfect for hiking and cycling. Summer (July-August) is peak season with warm temperatures (20-30°C/68-86°F) for lake swims and festivals, though popular spots like Lake Bled get crowded. Autumn (September-November) offers colorful foliage, harvest festivals, and comfortable weather (10-20°C/50-68°F) for wine tasting in regions like Vipava Valley. Winter (December-March) suits skiing in Kranjska Gora or Vogel, with snowy Alps and festive Christmas markets in towns like Ljubljana, though temperatures can drop to 0-10°C (32-50°F). Avoid peak summer if you dislike crowds; shoulder seasons provide better value.

Visa Requirements

Slovenia is part of the Schengen Area, so visa rules align with EU standards. Citizens of the US, Canada, Australia, New Zealand, and many other countries can enter visa-free for tourism or business stays up to 90 days within a 180-day period, provided they have a passport valid for at least three months beyond their planned departure. The European Travel Information and Authorization System (ETIAS) is expected to launch in late 2026, requiring pre-approval for visa-exempt travelers. Always check your nationality's requirements on official sites like the Slovenian Ministry of Foreign Affairs. Travel insurance covering health is recommended, as it's required for some entries.

How to Get There

Slovenia is well accessible via air, rail, bus, or car, thanks to its central European location.

- By Plane: The main international airport is Ljubljana Jože Pučnik Airport (LJU), about 25 km north of the capital, with direct flights from major European hubs like London (2 hours), Frankfurt, Paris, and Zurich. Budget airlines like Ryanair and EasyJet offer affordable routes but it’s a small airport with not that many direct flights. For transatlantic travelers, connect via larger airports. Nearby alternatives include Venice (Italy, 2-3 hours by bus/train), Zagreb (Croatia, 2 hours by bus), or Trieste (Italy, 1 hour by bus), with transfers to Slovenia. From LJU, shuttles, buses, or taxis reach Ljubljana in 30-45 minutes for €5-20.

- By Train: Efficient for arrivals from neighboring countries. Direct trains from Vienna (Austria, 6 hours), Munich (Germany, 6-7 hours), or Zagreb (Croatia, 2-3 hours) arrive at Ljubljana's central station. Eurail passes are valid on Slovenian Railways (SŽ).

- By Bus: Affordable international options like FlixBus connect from cities like Zagreb (2.5 hours), Venice (3 hours), Budapest (6 hours), or Munich (7 hours) to Ljubljana or coastal towns. Most routes terminate in Ljubljana for easy onward travel. Check with Flixbus for fares.

- By Car: Drive from Austria via the Karawanks Tunnel, Italy via highways, or Croatia. Roads are well-maintained; purchase a vignette (toll sticker) for highways (€15 for 7 days). International driving permit recommended if your license isn't in English.

How to Get Around

Slovenia's relatively small size makes navigation easy, with options for all budgets.

- Public Transport: Reliable and eco-friendly. Trains (SŽ) connect major cities like Ljubljana to Maribor (2 hours) or Koper (2.5 hours) for €10-20. Buses (Arriva or Nomago) cover rural areas, including routes to Lake Bled (1 hour from Ljubljana, €7). In cities, Ljubljana's Kavalir electric shuttles and bike-sharing are free or cheap. Buy an Urbana card for seamless urban travel.

- Car Rental: Ideal for flexibility in the countryside. Rent from agencies like Sixt or Hertz at airports/cities (from €30/day, including insurance). Automatic cars are pricier; drive on the right, and note speed limits (50 km/h in towns, 130 km/h on highways). Parking is ample but paid in centers.

- Biking and Walking: Slovenia is cyclist-friendly with dedicated paths; rent bikes in Ljubljana (€5/day) or join tours. Hiking trails abound in national parks.

- Other Options: Taxis/Uber are available in cities (€1-2/km); shared shuttles like GoOpti for airport transfers or inter-city (reliable and affordable). For coasts, ferries link to nearby Italian towns seasonally.

Public transport suffices for cities and main sites, but a car unlocks hidden gems like remote valleys.

Top Destinations and Attractions

Slovenia packs variety into its borders. Here's a regional breakdown:

- Ljubljana: The lively capital features baroque architecture, riverside cafes, and Ljubljana Castle for panoramic views. Stroll the car-free old town, visit Tivoli Park, or cruise the Ljubljanica River. Don't miss the Central Market for local produce. Many restaurants can feel a little like tourists traps but the local wines are a must try. Just outside of town there’s also very decent hiking in the forests and hills around the city. Check with Komoot and Alltrails for hiking trails.

- Lake Bled: Iconic alpine lake with a church-topped island and clifftop castle. Row a pletna boat, hike viewpoints like Ojstrica, or try kremna rezina cake. Nearby Vintgar Gorge offers boardwalk trails.

- Soča Valley: Emerald river paradise for rafting, kayaking, and hiking in Triglav National Park. Visit Bovec for adventures or Kobarid's WWI museum. Stunning in all seasons.

- Postojna Cave and Predjama Castle: Explore the world's largest show cave by train, home to olm salamanders, then visit the dramatic cave-embedded castle.

- Coastal Slovenia (Piran, Koper and Portorož): Venetian-influenced Piran boasts narrow streets, salt pans, and fresh seafood. Relax on beaches or explore nearby Sečovlje Salina Nature Park.

- Other Gems: Lake Bohinj for tranquility, Velika Planina's shepherd huts, Logar Valley's waterfalls, and Škocjan Caves (UNESCO). Triglav National Park for mountaineering. For Slovenians, hiking Triglav is almost a sacred destination and it’s said everyone has to at least done it once in their lifetime.

Region Key Attractions Best Activities

Alpine Lake Bled, Soča Valley, Triglav NP Hiking, rafting, skiing

Central Castle, old town, markets Walking tours, river cruises

Coastal Piran, salt pans Beach , seafood dining

Karst Postojna Cave, Predjama Castle Cave exploration, history

Accommodation

Options range from budget hostels (€20-40/night) to luxury resorts (€150+). In Ljubljana, stay in boutique hotels like Hotel Cubo. Lakeside glamping at Bled or Bohinj costs €80-120. Coastal apartments in Piran offer sea views for €70-100. Eco-friendly farm stays (agriturismo) provide authentic experiences for €50-80.

Food and Drink

Slovenian cuisine fuses Alpine, Mediterranean, and Balkan flavors. Must-tries: Potica (nut roll), štruklji (dumplings), kranjska klobasa (sausage), and bograc stew. Seafood shines on the coast; pair with wines from 3 regions (Primorska for reds, Podravje for whites). Craft beers and schnapps are popular. Meals cost €10-15 for budget, €20-30 for mid-range. Vegetarian options are increasing; try markets for fresh produce.

Practical Tips

- Currency and Costs: Euro; daily budget €50-100/person (excluding accommodation). ATMs widespread; cards accepted mostly.

- Language: Slovenian, but English is common. Learn basics like "hvala" (thanks).

- Safety: Very safe; petty theft rare. Follow trail safety in mountains.

- Sustainability: Use reusable items; support green-certified spots.

- Connectivity: Free Wi-Fi in cafes/hotels; EU roaming applies.

- Health: Tap water safe; no special vaccines needed beyond routine.

- Shopping: Buy souvenirs like lace, honey, or wine; tourist cards (e.g., Ljubljana Card) save on attractions

Slovakia - a guide to the center of Europe

Sun, 21 Dec 2025 09:34:00 GMT

Slovakia , a landlocked nation in Central Europe, is renowned for its dramatic mountainous landscapes, medieval castles, and rich history influenced by various empires. With a population of about 5.4 million, it shares borders with Poland, Ukraine, Hungary, Austria, and the Czech Republic. The capital, Bratislava , sits on the Danube River and serves as a gateway to the country's diverse attractions, from the High Tatras mountains to UNESCO-listed sites like Spiš Castle. Despite its proximity to popular destinations like Vienna and Budapest, Slovakia remains relatively undiscovered by mass tourism, offering affordable adventures, hiking opportunities, and cultural experiences without the crowds. It's an ideal spot for nature lovers, history buffs, and budget travelers. Bratislava (formerly known as Pressburg) is well connected by train and has an airport. Daily train service between Prague and Budapest passes by and is reliable and fast. Many locals commute to (well paying) jobs in Vienna which is just 30-45 minutes away - and of course has an airport to from which to start a journey into Slovakia. The country shares much of its historical - cultural past with Czech Republic which is very much seen as brother nation. The formerly Czechoslovakia was a real industrial powerhouse in the early 20th century. One of the earliest and largest shoe manufacturers in the world - Bata - was founded there. Today Slovakia is home to many car manufacturing plants.

Best Time to Visit

Slovakia experiences four distinct seasons, making timing key to your trip. The shoulder seasons of May-June and September-October are ideal for hiking and sightseeing, with milder temperatures (around 20°C/68°F), fewer crowds, and beautiful autumn foliage in September. Summers (July-August) are warm (up to 27°C/81°F) and popular, but can be crowded in national parks. Winters (December-February) bring snow and sub-freezing temperatures, perfect for skiing in the Tatras, though many hiking trails close from November to June due to snow and avalanche risks. For balanced weather and lower prices, aim for late spring or early fall. Winter weather can be slightly depressing in a city like Bratislava but on the other hand there’s a lively Christmas market that time of the year and great restaurants to choose from. Bratislava is also known for many artisanal coffee roasters and sourdough bakeries.

How to Get There

Slovakia is accessible via air, rail, bus, or car, with Bratislava as the primary entry point.

- By Air: Fly into Bratislava Airport (BTS), which handles budget flights from major European hubs like London, Dublin, and Berlin via carriers such as Ryanair. For more options, consider Vienna International Airport (VIE) in Austria, just 1 hour away by bus or train (e.g., Flixbus for 9 EUR, 1 hour). Košice Airport (KSC) in eastern Slovakia serves limited international routes. Book flights 3-6 months in advance for deals; no domestic flights exist due to the country's small size.

- By Train: Efficient for arrivals from neighboring countries. From Vienna, trains take 90 minutes for 5 EUR; from Budapest, 2.5 hours for 10 EUR; from Prague, about 4 hours. Use operators like ZSSK (Slovak Railways) or international services like EuroCity. Book via the ZSSK app or website.

- By Bus: Affordable and frequent, especially with Flixbus . From Budapest, 2.5 hours for 12-26 EUR; from Vienna, 1 hour for 9 EUR. Buses are comfortable with Wi-Fi and outlets.

- By Car: Drive in from borders with an International Driver's Permit (IDP). Purchase a vignette (highway toll sticker) online at eznamka.sk or at borders to avoid fines. Hitchhiking is safe and common for short distances.

Visa requirements: Most nationalities (e.g., US, EU, UK, Canada, Australia) can stay up to 90 days visa-free in the Schengen Area. ETIAS authorization is expected to start in mid-2026, so check updates.

How to Get Around

Slovakia's compact size makes it easy to navigate, with reliable public transport and scenic roads. Renting a car offers the most flexibility for rural areas.

- Trains: Operated by ZSSK, trains are efficient, scenic, and connect major cities (e.g., Bratislava to Košice: 4-5 hours, 18-30 EUR; Bratislava to Poprad in the Tatras: 4 hours, 15 EUR). Categories range from local passenger trains (Os) to faster InterCity (IC). Book online or via app; seats recommended in peak season. Pros: Comfortable, reliable; cons: Fewer routes in rural areas. Specialty lines like steam heritage railways add charm.

- Buses: More extensive coverage, especially in remote spots, via providers like Slovak Lines or Flixbus. Affordable (e.g., Bratislava to Košice: 6.5 hours, 22 EUR). Check schedules on cp.sk; buy tickets from drivers or online. Pros: Direct, cheap; cons: Slower than trains on long routes.

- Cars: Rentals start at 25 EUR/day (multi-day deals better); ideal for national parks and castles. Roads are good, with highways requiring a vignette (10 EUR for 10 days). EVs have charging in cities but sparse elsewhere. Pros: Freedom, scenic drives; cons: Narrow rural roads, parking issues in cities, strict fines. Use GPS for Slovak signage.

- Bikes and Other: Over 13,000km of cycling routes, including EuroVelo paths along the Danube. Rentals widely available; helmets required outside cities for adults. In Bratislava, use integrated public transit (trams, buses, trains) with unified tickets (0.90 EUR for 30 minutes; day pass 4.50 EUR). Hitchhiking is safe; ridesharing via BlaBlaCar common.

For accessibility: Newer trains and low-floor buses accommodate wheelchairs; book assistance in advance.

Top Attractions and Things to Do

Slovakia blends urban charm with outdoor adventures. Here's a curated list:

- Bratislava: Explore the walkable Old Town, climb Bratislava Castle for panoramic views, visit the Blue Church, and enjoy cafes and the music scene. It's a great base for day trips to Vienna or wine regions like Modra (tastings from 40 EUR). Use Getyourguide or Guruwalk to book walking tours or similar activities.

- High Tatras National Park: Europe's smallest alpine range offers hiking trails like Rysy (10 hours, challenging), Kriván (4 hours), or easy lakeside walks at Štrbské Pleso. Take cable cars to peaks like Lomnický štít (59 EUR round-trip). Winter skiing at resorts like Jasná (lift passes 8-49 EUR). Entry is free. Use apps like komoot , strava or all trails to find suitable hiking routes.

- Spiš Castle: One of Europe's largest medieval ruins (UNESCO site); explore towers and exhibits. Nearby, visit Dobšinská Ice Cave (9 EUR, 30 minutes) with stunning ice formations.

- Slovak Paradise National Park: Adventure hiking with over 100km of trails through gorges, waterfalls, and canyons using ladders, chains, and bridges. It's like an outdoor obstacle course; prepare for wet conditions.

- Košice: Eastern hub with the Gothic St. Elisabeth Cathedral and a historic center packed with monuments. Join the annual Peace Marathon (37 EUR entry) in October.

- Other Highlights: Banská Štiavnica (UNESCO mining town with open-air museum, 10-25 EUR); Slovak Karst Caves (e.g., Domica with boat rides, 9 EUR); rock climbing in Terchová (guided 80 EUR); thermal spas like Sklené Teplice (baths from 70 EUR/night).

Suggested Itineraries:

- 3-4 Days: Base in Bratislava; day trips to wine regions or castles.

- 7 Days: Bratislava (2 days), High Tatras (3 days), Košice (2 days).

- 10-14 Days: Add Slovak Paradise, Spiš Castle, and Banská Štiavnica.

Accommodation

Options suit all budgets:

- Hostels: 9-17 EUR/night for dorms (e.g., Wild Elephants in Bratislava).

- Budget Hotels/Guesthouses: 25-40 EUR/night.

- Airbnbs: Rooms 25 EUR, apartments 50 EUR.

- Campsites/Mountain Huts: 14-16 EUR; book huts early for hikers.

- Luxury: 150+ EUR/night.

Wild camping is legal on public land outside parks.

Food and Drink

Slovak cuisine is hearty and affordable. Try bryndzové halušky (potato dumplings with sheep cheese), kapustnica (sauerkraut soup), or vyprážaný syr (fried cheese). Meals cost 7-20 EUR; beer 1.50-2.50 EUR; wine 2.50-4 EUR. Good vegan options exist in cities (e.g., Vegan Kiosk in Bratislava). Shop at supermarkets like Tesco for groceries (20-35 EUR/week). Visit markets like Bratislava's Old Market Hall for local produce and festivals.

Budget and Costs

Slovakia is budget-friendly. Daily estimates per person:

Budget Level Daily Cost (EUR) Inclusions

Backpacker 35-60 Hostel dorm, self-cooked meals, public transport, free activities

Mid-Range 70-130 Mid-range hotel, casual dining, trains/car rental, paid attractions

Luxury 150+ High-end hotel, fine dining, private transfers

Money-saving tips: Use free walking tours, tap water (safe; bring a reusable bottle), lunch specials, and Flixbus. Attractions like caves cost 9 EUR; cable cars 59 EUR.

Safety and Practical Tips

Ranked as one of Europe's safest countries (19th globally), with low violent crime. Watch for pickpocketing in Bratislava's Old Town; secure valuables. Hiking: Check weather, carry gear (flashlight, raincoat, first aid), inform others of plans, and get mountain rescue insurance (emergency: 18300 or 112). Solo travelers (including women) feel safe; driving requires caution on mountain roads. English is spoken in tourist areas; greet with "Dobrý deň." Currency: Euro. Power: Type C/E plugs. Tap water is safe. Get travel insurance for activities. Tipping: 5-10% if satisfied.

Mt. Kilimanjaro via the Rongai route

Sat, 20 Dec 2025 06:00:00 GMT

It is early afternoon when we arrive at our camp at the foot of the sharp and high Mawenzi peak (5,100m). Almost as high as Kilimanjaro itself, this peak is virtually inaccessible and differs in every aspect from its big brother 10 km away; sharp, narrow, and without snow/glaciers. It is a beautiful spot to set up the tent camp, there is a small local stream of water, and the place is somewhat sheltered from the cold wind. It is day three, and the group of 15 people is still complete. Beforehand, during the briefing, we were not very enthusiastic; it seemed much less spontaneous and free than the Mount Meru climb a few days earlier. Much more commercial and structured. Moreover, it quickly becomes clear that we are the only 'non-native speaker' in the group, which otherwise consists of an American family of six, an American couple, two English couples, and three solo travelers including us. Mostly adventure-oriented tourists rather than pure athletes or mountaineers. Although it would later turn out that almost everyone had prepared fairly well and trained as much as possible. During the briefing, the route is roughly discussed, clothing and materials are reviewed, and we settle up for the borrowed sleeping bag and clothing items. Before even one step is taken, we get a letter shoved under our noses indicating the usual tip after completing the trip.

On Sunday morning, we board the bus that drops us off two hours later at the gate to the Rongai route, which starts at the northern border with Kenya. Of the four major routes, this one is slightly shorter and lighter than the others, except for the Marangu route. The success rate for reaching the summit here is 80%, whereas other routes achieve 60-70%. The routes all take 6-8 days; the longer someone stays on the mountain, the higher the chances of good acclimatization. Whether someone reaches the summit depends on many factors, the most important being: overall fitness, clothing/materials, and the influence of altitude sickness. These three factors are somewhat interrelated, with the first two being very much individually controllable. Whether and to what extent someone suffers from altitude sickness is hard to predict in advance, especially if certain altitudes have not been reached before. Good fitness will undoubtedly help, as will habituation to greater altitudes, where, for example, many Swiss have an advantage. Then there are medications (Diamox) and materials like oxygen tanks that can tip the success rate in your favor.

We started the trek at an altitude of almost 2,000 meters and pass through different vegetative zones: coniferous forest, tropical rainforest, and open plains. A slow pace (pole pole) is deliberately maintained to gradually get used to the altitude step by step. In the late afternoon, we arrive each time at the tent camp, which has miraculously already been fully set up by the porters. In addition to the group of 15 people, there is a crew of 58 porters and helpers who carry luggage, food, and tents up the mountain. Miraculously, because they do this at a pace that terrifies us, carrying 10-15 kg on their heads. After arrival, we dive into our tent and are given a basin of hot water to wash the dust off our faces. Not long after, dinner awaits, served in a large mess tent.

Usually, this is the most enjoyable part of the day. We get to know each other better, and the shared mission creates a bond. Not unimportantly, the food—given the circumstances—is excellent. Despite the camping presentation, it is fresh, healthy, and flavorful. Lots of vegetables and fruit, and even the vegetarian and gluten-free customer in our group is accommodated. We assume that anything left over is later eaten by the crew themselves.

Typically, most of us call it a night after around 7:00 p.m. and dive back into the tent. However, not before a last visit to the set-up toilet tent and a glance at the incredibly pitch-black African sky full of stars and celestial bodies. Ideally, we sleep a bit lower than the highest point we reached that day, for example, through an additional 'acclimatization walk.' As we gain altitude, the nights get colder; you really have to bundle up well to keep it somewhat comfortable. We hardly get any real good sleep; the hard ground and nighttime toilet visits are the main reasons. The prospect of having to leave the tent at night becomes too much for Darren—on his honeymoon with Robyn—and us, and soon we are laughing broadly at our 'pee bottle' solution. Camping does have something special, and the fresh air, silence, and early sleep ensure that most of us can get up reasonably fit again. Undoubtedly helped by a warm cup of tea brought to the tent at 6 a.m. Followed by a basin of hot water, and soon we can laugh and eat at breakfast again. We pack our things, take our day packs, and are often on our way around 8:30 a.m. We walk for about 6-7 hours with many breaks in between, mainly to keep drinking enough water. On most days, the sun has free rein, and lots of water also helps against altitude sickness. At each camp, the water has its own flavor; it is collected locally, boiled, and filtered.

The Mawenzi camp where we have arrived is at 4,300 meters altitude; most of us are not really experiencing problems yet. Meru was 4,500 meters, and we still feel fine. In the evening at the table, we all know that what is coming will be very tough, partly because two days are combined into one very big one. It also feels a bit like a 'last supper.' The sun provides us with welcome warmth in the morning, and we set course for Kibo; the base camp for the final ascent of Kilimanjaro. It is about five hours of walking where we cover some 400 meters of elevation and are treated to a new environment: 'alpine desert.' A barren, open plain where little grows and the wind has free rein. The section is also known as the 'saddle area' between the Mawenzi and Kibo peaks, a flat intervening 'saddle' area where we constantly have our final destination in sight. In the middle of the route, something glistens next to the path, and as we get closer, it turns out to be the wreckage of a small plane, crashed in 2008 during bad weather. All occupants perished; the wreckage was never cleared. It feels a bit like the white carcasses you encounter on safari in the savannah: silent victims of a ruthless environment.

As we slowly climb to 4,700 meters in the last hour, we start to feel somewhat weakened and notice the thin air for the first time. The sun takes us mercilessly; fortunately, we know that at this altitude, we must protect and sunscreen ourselves as much as possible. Literally five minutes before arrival, someone is rushed down on a wheeled stretcher—not good timing and another sign of the tough night to follow. The group of 15 has broken into two or three pieces more often in the previous days; today, the difference grows to about 25 minutes.

The idea is that we will attempt the final ascent to the summit that same evening! 1,200 meters of elevation in 7 hours, the descent, brunch, and then another three-hour descent. It seems almost madness, and maybe it is. The reason for the nighttime ascent is twofold: experiencing the sunrise at the summit and not being able to see the endless path to the top. Especially the latter is mentally understandable, although groups with headlamps ahead of us somewhat mimic this effect. Moreover, I have to admit that such a long ascent in full sun is not really desirable either.

We force down the necessary vitamins and carbohydrates, after which a fairly dramatic 'summit briefing' follows. Symptoms that should not lead to immediate surrender include vomiting up to three times, headache, dizziness, and nausea. If you are no longer responsive, babble incoherently, or faint, you are immediately taken off the mountain. The faces of some ladies darken, and we are at least well warned. No one really gets a good three hours of sleep afterward. At 11:00 p.m. (!), we are woken up, after which we dress like Michelin men: three layers on the legs, two pairs of socks, two kinds of hats, thick gloves, and 4-6 upper layers. Ideally, thermal clothing underneath because cotton can be merciless when sweating in these low temperatures. The tricky part is that adding layers later if it's cold is difficult, and during the descent in the sun, layers must be removed. We eat some snacks in the tent, and fortunately, we can still make some jokes. It takes a while before a group of 15 is ready, especially when the American family, who has prepared everything to the last detail, still needs to be equipped with oxygen masks and tanks. Presumably, these systems give about 20% more chance of reaching the summit. If you consider that at the summit there is 50% less oxygen in the air compared to sea level, this can make the difference.

At 12:30 a.m., we finally set off, in a long line at a speed of about 2 km/h. Ahead of us, various groups that left earlier are visible via headlamps. Not even an hour has passed before we see the first unfortunates coming down, on their own strength with a helper but probably exhausted or suffering too much from altitude sickness. We zigzag up the mountain in a long line on a narrow path. It feels a bit like a cycling peloton in the queen stage. Soon, the first cracks appear in the peloton, and if you're at the back, you're chasing facts. We stop briefly every half hour to drink something. You want to keep moving because especially your toes are on the verge of freezing. It is terribly cold on the mountain.

We feel good, and as far as we're concerned, the pace could be increased a bit. Although we know from Meru that this is treacherous; at this altitude, it can come back like a boomerang. We are also venturing into unknown territory out of the comfort zone; we haven't been at this altitude before, and with every step, we try to listen to the body for signals. Maybe it feels like a diver who hasn't been at this depth before. We drank our first bottle of water perhaps a bit too quickly; when we take the second from the bag after two hours, it turns out to be almost entirely frozen. Most have placed at least one bottle upside down as recommended so that the drinking end freezes last. Because eight helpers are carrying the bags of those with an oxygen system, there is probably less capacity to bring extra water.

At an altitude of 5,200 meters, we start to get into trouble. The heart rate rises quickly to about 140 beats. With nose and mouth, we have to draw the maximum amount of oxygen from the air each time. Moreover, a throbbing headache sets in, and we get slightly dizzy. The headache persists, and during the break, we take a paracetamol. Intake of sugars makes you feel a bit better temporarily. Now it's a matter of survival and hoping that the summit comes within reach somehow. A few times, the thought creeps up that we won't make it. The stomach doesn't feel entirely great, and soon we have to leave a big message somewhere—right now, and it costs us most of the five-minute break. However, we are still in the lead group with three members of the American family equipped with extra oxygen, Katie from London, and Matt from Texas. Tough, steep rocky sections and gravel follow where you slide back down a bit each time. Then we hear that it's about another hour to Gilman's Point, an important intermediate station at 5,700 meters. It is now 5:00 a.m. During the short breaks, everyone drops to the ground to rest. There has been hardly any talking for a long time. The helpers try to encourage us from time to time. We have been dangling at the back of the group for a while with one helper behind us. We often have to stop briefly to catch our breath; the gap that forms is at most a few meters wide. Especially Katie seems the freshest and can still talk reasonably normally. Then we see and feel that Gilman's Point is not far away, and a small ray of light appears on the horizon. Even though it is terribly cold and windy on this protruding rock, Gilman's Point is a mental victory. Everyone knows that then 'only' 200 meters of elevation remain to be bridged. We stop for 10 minutes for snacks and hot tea that the helpers had brought.

The sun slowly rises, and amazingly, we can turn off our lights. What a boost; the sun gives us new necessary energy. The view is mighty, not only the horizon but also the crater and glaciers on the mountain. It is still about 1.5 hours of walking to Uhuru Peak on a gently ascending path. We even walk at the front for a while, although we quickly notice that we are deep into our reserves. We arrive at Stella Point where we see another route merging. We see several dozen people stumbling upward, and some fall into each other's arms crying. Some just can't go on and stare blankly ahead, pushed forward by a helper. We also see the first people returning from the summit, at least this is unmistakably readable from their faces. It is now fully light, and the route to Uhuru Peak is quite visible. Our group passes most other people on the way, although we walk the last part at the back, stopping occasionally. The glaciers that look like patches of snow from a great distance turn out to be 20-meter-high ice chunks that inspire nothing but awe.

We all know now that the summit is within reach. Just hold on a little longer. The familiar sign, the finish, looms in the distance. We give each other a high-five and collapse. Not for very long because it's crowded to line up for a photo at the sign. We take time for some food and still have a little water left. It even gets a bit warmer with the full morning sun in our faces. Relief, emptiness, but also confusion is the dominant feeling. We decide to turn around and descend the mountain, a process that normally goes at least twice as fast as the ascent. Then suddenly, as loose clumps, some from our group trickle in! Not in the order we expected beforehand. There is cheering, and we discuss how it went for the others. It quickly becomes clear that some were brought back to camp after just a few hours. We walk quickly onward; now that the goal is achieved, we long for a moment of relaxation. We quickly get warm and still have a very high heart rate. Back at Gilman's Point, we let the group go ahead a bit and drink and eat some more. We feel a bit better then. After some rocky sections, you suddenly have a complete view of the entire ascent and the base camp at the foot of the mountain. We climbed this section of almost 1,000 meters of elevation mostly zigzagging through gravel and stones. However, going straight down seems feasible for the descent. After a short stop, we rush down to get to camp quickly with the last strength. Sliding and jumping through the gravel, avoiding some stones, we are down in 25 minutes. Completely exhausted and sweaty, we arrive at the tent with the first thought 'we are really never doing this again.'

After resting a bit, the others from the group arrive. Everyone rests in the tent; real sleep doesn't happen, it's 9 a.m., and the sun shines fully into the tent. Over the past five days, a nice group feeling has developed; everyone helps and respects each other. At brunch, everyone's experiences are exchanged, and it quickly becomes clear that it has become a true battle of attrition. Four out of 15 didn't make it. Everyone seems relieved, and most are happy that the summit was reached. Especially the Americans think it's great that 'Walter' sprinted down the mountain and left only a dust cloud behind. After the meal, we pack our things and prepare for a three-hour descent to 3,700 meters. Once warmed up, we can't stop talking to each other, already savoring the thought that a shower and real bed await tomorrow. Smoothly, we arrive at the wet camp, in the middle of a misty fog. Exhausted but also proud, we get a good night's sleep. The evening before, we had already discussed all contributing $150 per person as a tip for the 50+ helpers to divide. In the morning, this is presented to them during the 'closing ceremony.' The group thanks us with song and dance. Some of us owe a huge debt of gratitude to certain helpers and also give clothing items.

That morning, a substantial descent of over five hours still awaits, and everyone pushes through the aches. Again, we talk incessantly about the most diverse topics from American politics to work and other travels. We cross through the clouds and tropical rainforest to finally return to the gate. Empty and confused. We let ourselves be guided through some formalities to take the bus back to the hotel. The shower, the terrace, and fresh salad feel paradisiacal. After a few hours, most of us find each other with a beer on the terrace, and the atmosphere is completely exuberant. For hours, there is laughter, and a surprisingly large amount of energy is released.

Nepal - around the Annapurna

Fri, 19 Dec 2025 13:45:00 GMT

The time and place for working out this travel report is after completing the trek in Pokhara , a touristy 'lakeside' spot south of the Himalayan mountain range. In the seventies, it was still the end station for many a hippie after an 'Asia overland tour'; now there are many hotels and tourist shops, but weed and mushrooms remain available. Normally, we would leave these places within a few hours—it's also tropically warm with a heavy downpour every afternoon. However, now it's a delightful stopover with what was sorely missed after nearly ten intensive days in the mountains: good coffee and internet. On one hand, it's nice to be completely cut off; on the other, we notice how dependent we become on a connection to the outside world—we can hardly do without the news and developments. Good coffee needs no further explanation.

Nine days in the high mountains were breathtaking but also physically exhausting. Due to the minimal preparation, a strong appeal was made to our ingenuity and adaptability. It was quiet and sometimes lonely in the mountains. The (thin) air was as pure and fresh as can be. However, the path to the top turned out to be very dangerous in some places, so we were glad to have hired a sherpa relatively quickly on the route, and what now predominates is relief and satisfaction.

Day 1: Kathmandu – Ghermu (1,350 m – 1,200 m)

The roads and buses are of the worst kind we've encountered on travels in developing countries. We can only be glad to be out of Kathmandu, a busy, dirty, and noisy capital. Although it's the political, religious, and business center of the country, it's mainly the starting and ending point for many travelers. This extremely poor country (80% survive on less than 2 dollars a day) with 30 million inhabitants also has the only serious (international) airport here. The first impression shows similarities to India, and the damage from the massive earthquake three months ago seems manageable. However, appearances are deceiving, and in many rural areas where houses are made of clay or wood, the damage and pain are immense. Tourists are massively avoiding the country, 'adding insult to injury' because the country needs the tourist dollars so badly, especially now. Exceptions regarding obtaining 'trekking permits' and entrance tickets for national parks are not made, and right now, some sly locals are trying to squeeze tourists to the last cent, although our negotiating position regarding accommodation choices can be described as quite strong.

Out of the sweltering capital, seven hours of successive, stuffy bus rides follow, during which we decide not to walk the first part of the 'Annapurna Circuit' (AC) because it's also frequented by motor vehicles. The AC is a looping trekking route around the Annapurna mountain range, forming part of the complete Himalaya. Mainly executed counterclockwise, the circuit has long been renowned as one of the most beautiful longer treks in the world. In the last decade, it has had to relinquish some of this fame in favor of facilitating motorized transport. It's a 'trade-off' for the local mountain people who have always trekked through the mountains, trading or for social purposes. The vast majority is still free of jeeps, as are the rice fields of Nagdi where we set our first steps in the afternoon at 4:00 PM. This includes a backpack that's too heavy in tropical conditions, so three hours later, we arrive exhausted and completely soaked in twilight at a 'lodge.' The farm shed barely deserves the title 'hotel,' and from the host's body language, it seems like no tourist has been there in light years. In a hurry, a bed with the thinnest kind of foam mattress is made up in a wooden shed infested with insects. The price of 1 euro matches it, and a meal can even be put together, after which we can still shower and sleep reasonably well.

Day 2: Ghermu – Daraphani (1,200 m – 1,900 m)

The first urgent advice from the authorities to never walk alone we naturally ignore right away and have to retract after just one day. It's clear that we need a porter ('sherpa' or 'porter'), if not for the (excess) baggage, then for safety. The route is littered with tricky obstacles and steep mountain walls next to narrow gravel paths where a misstep probably means the end.

Over a breakfast of pancakes and local honey, we negotiate with the head of the house about hiring help, and keeping the money flow within the family, he quickly puts forward his nephew who, as a teacher, has a few weeks with nothing to do anyway. This young guy gets straight to work, taking the lion's share of the baggage. He will walk everything up to the final climb on slippers (!), awe-inspiring even though locals are used to it. Mutual communication is somewhat hindered because we don't speak 'Nepali' and his English could use a refresher. However, Sherpas are an ethnic minority near the Everest area, famous for their carrying capacity and activity at high altitudes.

We climb steadily over the gravel path next to a raging river that, fed by countless tributaries, carries the (melt) water to lower areas. It's monsoon season, and we'll notice that soon enough. The monsoon arrives around noon from the Bay of Bengal over this area, and it will pour hard for now. We were prepared for this. Nevertheless, after seven hours of walking, we arrive soaked at our final destination. We are pretty exhausted, and the small aches indicate that we have to pay the toll for pushing a bit too hard the day before. It seems traditional that locals are charged nothing for food and shelter while tourists pay full price. There's a gaping gap between 'Nepali' and 'tourist' prices.

Day 3: Daraphani – Dhukurpokari (1,900 m – 3,000 m)

It's low season, and tourism has dropped by about 90% after the earthquake, resulting in empty trails and lodges. Admittedly nice and quiet, but little conversation. Plenty of time for brainstorming about how to better organize the business back home. We only encounter some shepherds, and what stands out is that locals throw waste without hesitation next to them. Our sherpa does good work. It's not easy for us to read emotions from Asians, but soon we get along practically well. We walk all day; it's warm, and our legs are still not in good shape. In some sections, the road is impassable due to floods, and we choose alternative routes. The main route is fairly well signposted with the red-white arrows adopted from the French Alps. Sometimes we get confused, and since our sherpa has never walked the route before either, it's sometimes guessing. In almost every village, there are 'prayer wheels' and small stupas with memorial stones to see. The latter can be described as meditation altars with ancient Buddhist texts engraved in stone. The former are rotating metal cylinders with paper mantras inside that monks repeat constantly in chant as practice. Of course, the characteristic colorful flags with texts can't be missing, visible almost everywhere and truly typical of Nepal.

At four in the afternoon, we face a crucial choice: we can take the local sleeping spot or continue, in which case, in the least favorable scenario, we still have 3-4 hours ahead. It turns out badly; at seven in the evening, we arrive exhausted at the first lodge. A dog has been walking ahead of us all that time, seeming to want to show us the way. We are now at three km altitude, and the fresh, unmistakable scent of the beautiful coniferous forests softens the pain somewhat. We are served a good meal and sleep like a log. Only the next morning do we see what rocky outcrop is hidden behind the village—a dramatically steep mountain wall formed by glacial erosion, called the 'gate to heaven' by locals. We also learn that a trekker with a guide is half a day ahead of us—no better motivation for us. Slowly, the big peaks of the Annapurna come into view, and here and there, small, isolated remaining glaciers appear. Strangely enough, they are sometimes somewhat blackish due to embedded sand, pebbles, and gravel.

Days 4 and 5: Dhukurpokhari – Manang (3,000 m – 3,500 m)

Around noon at lunch, we coincidentally step into a restaurant with a French woman and her guide; apparently, we've overtaken them. She seems, just like us, glad and surprised to see a Westerner. Severe headache from the altitude is already bothering her, but it's nice to chat for a bit. We pass what can only be the least busy and abandoned airport in the world with an overgrown runway. Around four, we arrive in Manang, a well-known springboard and stopover on the way to higher places. The planned rest day is highly recommended for acclimatization and comes in handy to regain strength. Fortunately, here too, just like the previous stop, there's a hostess who speaks good English and even seems to have excellent cooking skills. Due to the season, there's little choice other than the local 'dal bhat,' a vegetarian curry with rice or chapati. We prefer to avoid alcohol in favor of the local 'seabuckthorn' juice, berries from a shrub packed with vitamins. The French woman overwhelms us with stories; she has lived here for years and has jewelry made that she sells in France. Meanwhile, her guide teaches our sherpa the finer points of the trade.

Nepal is an ethnically very diverse and complex country. Sandwiched between superpowers like India and China, the culture is defined by caste, hierarchy, and family. Over 80% of the population lives in mountainous areas, connected by an ingenious network of endless walking paths. Over the centuries, countless migration flows have taken place, and especially we encounter Tibetan, Indian, and lighter Pakistani-looking people. On less clear moments, we need a few seconds to realize exactly where we are, and flashbacks from old times in the Philippines, India, and China blur our sense of reality.

At 3.5 km, the air is clearly thinner, and the first mild symptoms of altitude sickness appear. It's important to keep drinking a lot of water, although the body loses it just as easily during often sleepless nights. Our physical condition must get used to the altitude, and what works well is not ascending more than 750 meters per day and sleeping lower than the highest point reached that day—this can be achieved through separate acclimatization hikes of a few hours to 200-300 meters higher. Sleeping lower makes it easier for the body to produce more red blood cells that can transport oxygen better through the body. A method tried by many ambitious cyclists. It's very against our nature not to keep going, but the gradual approach is the only way to conquer high mountain passes. On the rest day, we become completely zen from two Buddhist monks who chant mantras all day in the restaurant, and we read the great book by Joris Luyendijk about the (still) rotten financial sector.

Day 6: Manang – Ledhar (3,500 m – 4,200 m)

We can get back to it; conditions are excellent. On narrow mountain paths, we are alone for hours amid the high, somewhat frightening white peaks. Frightening because occasionally the echo of breaking ice/snow resounds. In low season, the smaller 'tea shops' along the way are closed, and all water refill stations are shut. Not taking enough provisions is madness, and our sherpa's limited experience seems to affect him as he doesn't drink or eat anything for hours. He thankfully accepts a Snickers or Mars from us now and then. No wonder then that at the ghost town 'Yak Kharka,' he starts complaining about headache—same for us during lunch, but strangely, it's gone after a short break. The weather turns, and within 10 minutes, it's completely cloudy and wet; we can't see more than 30 meters ahead. At the hamlet with three houses 'Ledhar' at 4,200 meters, we hesitate long about what to do. We decide to continue for another two hours to the next town, despite earlier warnings about dangerous passages. It starts to storm more and thunder in the distance; we don't know if it's lightning or avalanches. Occasionally we stop, and we see less and less ahead—just then, a local appears from the mist who asks why we didn't stop earlier. We immediately turn around; there's nothing else to do but wait for better conditions in the very primitive hut.

Day 7: Ledhar – High Camp (4,200 m – 4,900 m)

The first glance out the window predicts little good, but it's soon a radiant day with a clear blue sky. Lacking showers with hot water, the ice-cold stream from the mountains has served as a refresher for days. Even adventurous trekkers want to be catered to, and many a hectare of precious forest has already been burned for hot showers. Not very sustainable, and alternative energy sources like hydropower plants are being built, though the electricity gladly flows away to India and China. Whoever pays, decides. Well past the tree line, we trek through the canyon toward Thorong Phedi, also known as 'base camp' at 4,500 meters, avoiding a herd of yaks. The yaks are great climbers and provide milk, cheese, and meat for the local mountain people. A large male yak is not to be confused with the Yeti, the still unsolved mystery about the existence of the human/animal 'bigfoot.'

Little time to daydream about this; obstacles loom ahead—whole sections of mountain wall have been swept away, and the other side is hardly better with a narrow gravel path. In fact, they are steep slopes full of stone and gravel with what should resemble a path over them. Life-threatening. A loose stone or misstep, and you're 50 meters below. As if that's not enough, a galloping herd of yaks appears out of nowhere, right on this section! Panic on our sherpa's face, for the first time. We can't go anywhere; an unpredictable move from this beast means serious problems. In fact, we can only wait and see what happens, and we even manage to snap a photo in time. We soon see that there's a shepherd behind the herd, who thankfully manages to get the animals higher up the mountain wall with pebbles and sounds. We stayed reasonably calm but realized we had lost control. Exhausted, mainly from tension, we reach the penultimate camp before the top and need an hour to recover. Physically, we feel good, and as we step outside, we look for the path—every scenario involves a steep, rocky climb, and it's hard to imagine we'll end up on that protruding rock above.

Wiser from damage and shame, we consciously go very slowly at a pace of 2 km/h up the mountain, interrupted by some water breaks. The higher, the more essential water intake becomes. For example, at 6 kilometers altitude, there's only 50% oxygen in the air compared to sea level (on Mt. Everest 29%), making it harder for humans to absorb oxygen. The body's response is to increase heart rate and accelerate breathing. Because the air is so dry, you lose more moisture through accelerated breathing. This must be compensated. What plays a role is that the blood becomes thicker; drinking a lot counters this somewhat. The little oxygen present is used for the most important body functions: heart, lungs, and brain functions. The capacity for other processes is considerably reduced, so for example, the thinking process slows down. Oxygen molecules become scarce, and different body functions compete assertively for their favors. Several times, we experience not being able to reproduce simple facts. The advantage is that daily worries fade into the background, and we can only focus on staying fit and reaching the top. No wonder some retreats are held at altitude! Digestion also costs oxygen, and sometimes even the thought of eating evokes some aversion. Body reserves are (to a certain extent) no luxury at greater heights.

We know that if we reach high camp at 4,900, we've taken an essential step toward our ambition for this trek. It's deserted up there, and we're glad when someone finally opens the door. With about 100 beds available, we don't have to worry about a sleeping spot. A pounding headache sets in, accompanied by mild nausea. Our hands have been swollen for days. Not a good sign, and although we have no appetite at all, we force down a dal bhat. People with severe altitude sickness are experienced as drunk and can no longer walk a straight line. The three of us stare blankly ahead for a long time and see how the weather completely turns in no time. Hail, rain, and strong gusts of wind completely isolate us in this lonely and high mountain hut. It's hard to imagine that in better times, dozens of people gather here and have fun.

Our host has a lonely job and runs this place independently, from gardening to cooking and cleaning. During the earthquake three months ago, he was at the same window where we are now sitting, witnessing how the earth around him trembled and shook. We feel a bit better and venture to a peak 150 meters higher; it goes reasonably until at incredible views above, we become nauseous again. These are moments when we, actually belonging at sea level, wonder what on earth we're doing here and quickly descend. Two remarkable figures ascend; they are Buddhist monks on a pilgrimage or outing. They too will attempt it tomorrow, and in the evening, we enjoy a healthy last supper in camaraderie, although speaking English is hardly possible.

Day 8: High Camp – Thorong La – Muktinath - Jomsom (4,900 m – 5,416 m - 2,800 m)

In hindsight, we read that it would have been better to sleep a bit lower before crossing the mountain pass. Nevertheless, at five in the morning—after a stone-cold night—we're up to beat strong and cold wind gusts on the top in the course of the morning. The quartet, of diverse backgrounds, begins the approximately three-hour climb. After the cloud and mist banks, above 5 km, we feel like we're on the roof of the world. Around us, only breathtaking views with snow-capped peaks of Annapurna I, II, and III. It's unbelievable that a group of local young men is building a stone hut here. In the time of the Maoist rebels, not so long ago, there was a good chance we'd be asked for 'toll' or 'donations' before continuing our journey.

Like a diesel, we pull steadily upward, stoically, at our own pace. It's clear that the others can go faster; we expected that from our two monk friends, our sherpa perhaps exceeds his own expectations, and what he shows is an impressive feat. We stay together, and of the four kilos of water we're carrying, half is gone after 1.5 hours. We walk on a moon-like landscape amid two peaks, clearly the shape of a mountain pass. Fortunately, it's not so steep here, and after some time, it becomes clear we're near our goal. Without really getting into trouble on the last climb, unlike last year, we reach Thorong La at 5,416 meters above sea level. Aside from the usual photo rituals, we don't want to linger too long at this altitude; headache is knocking or has already entered for some.

The descent is technical and long, maneuvering through stones, gravel, and debris while sparing ankles and knees. That it went completely wrong here at the end of last year when an unexpected snowstorm hit is tragic; stories from survivors are almost unbelievable. Descending with a meter of snow over this sometimes very steep descent is madness. The whole lower body starts hurting badly meanwhile; the view of the endpoint a kilometer lower and far on the horizon is both discouraging and enchanting. As if looking through a window into another world. A world of dry desert rocks, bordering Tibet in culture and location.

After a short, uninspired bite to eat, it's trudging, limping, and stumbling to the ancient temple of Muktinath where our two friends want to create a photo moment. It's only 1:00 PM when we arrive in the adjacent sleepy town. No place to stick around. Usually, the bus is taken here to the further Jomsom; the alternative is a four-hour trek over barren, windy, and dusty roads. Not a pleasant prospect, and only with painkillers could we continue. We crave a shower, healthy meal, and bed. The others are also exhausted, and we pool money for a jeep that, completely shaken up, drops us in Jomsom. Thereby, as it turns out later, leaving a beautiful, centuries-old trading town on the left.

Day 9: Jomsom – Pokhara (2,800 m – 800 m)

Where the two monks get the energy from is a mystery to us, but they kept traveling and walking. Perhaps they worry much less than Westerners. Packed like sardines, even though there's no sea in sight, they began a day-long ride to Pokhara. We had set our sights on a hotel we'd seen advertised earlier, and it didn't disappoint us at all. To complete the full circuit on foot, it would have been another three days walking to Pokhara, the least interesting part aside perhaps from Poon Hill. The very windy Jomsom even has a primitive airport; however, tickets to Pokhara for the next day were sold out. An entertaining Indian, the hotel manager, updated us on the area and promised to check if a spot would become available the day after. It did; the good man was knocking on our door at 6 AM. We had to go straight away, head over heels on foot to the airport two minutes away. Where else do you find your backpack weighed on an old-fashioned pointer scale? A group of Flemings quickly filled the 'plane,' not entirely surprising since it's a propeller-type Dornier 228 where you can still cozily watch along with the pilots.

Three days in Pokhara make us restless enough to want to head out again. Into the mountains, where it's quiet and clean. The surrounding area offers a wide arsenal of interesting 'trekking trails' that are manageable individually. And so it happens that, after being dropped off by a taxi, we immediately ascend endless stair steps, in the form of flat, worked granite slabs. Soon it turns out that, contrary to what we suspected, the southern trails of the Annapurna Conservation Area are more frequently walked by tourists than the northern part from last week. Yet, the bulk of the daily monsoon rain falls here; the reason might be sought in the lower difficulty level and proximity to Pokhara. Anyway, the sweltering rainforest harbors cunning and dubious residents, from clandestine weed-selling 'didis' to the dreaded 'leeches.' Especially these bloodsuckers are a real plague for naive passersby in the rainy season. Almost unnoticed and lightning-fast, the critters crawl from your shoe up your leg, searching for the nicest spot to gorge on human blood. Though relatively harmless, it's mainly the uncomfortable idea that makes you preventively check your shoes and legs regularly. It's bizarre how quickly this creature, sometimes used for medicinal purposes, sticks to your sole and finds its way up. There must be billions in this forest because standing still for five seconds guarantees 1 or 2 new body inhabitants.

Keep walking is the motto. And we do, in good condition, passing lodges, teahouses, and sweeping past other trekkers. The terrain goes constantly up and down. When you've reached the fresh, cool flowing river, you know it's time to climb again. In the late afternoon, we arrive in Landruk; however, the goal for the day was Ghandruk on the other side of the valley. This to have a good chance of completing the trek in exactly three days. The standard questions from locals become predictable: 'from which country' and 'where are you coming from now'; in turn, it's always 'how long to...?' Various sources confirm two hours, most of which is the steep stairs up to Ghandruk. It starts pouring heavily, and equipped with a rain poncho, we pass a sheltering trekker shortly after. It's an overly heavily packed, unprepared young Australian (with Dutch roots) who can barely move forward and asks us if there are lodges up top. We confirm this, and taking her second bag, we hurry, eagerly looking forward to a dry, warm sleeping spot. This goal comes within reach around six. Our travel companion, only twenty years old, turns out to have gotten lost too, but this can still be fixed the next day. A cold shower, dry clothes, and 'dal bhat' do two tired travelers good at the end of the day.

The mornings in the mountains are wonderful: fresh and beautiful views. Lemon-ginger-honey tea and the exciting 'Into Thin Air' book make for a complete morning ritual. Soon our paths separate; we would have joined the longer trek if not for time constraints. Slippery paths upward follow; the first trekkers doing the route in reverse appear, and experiences are briefly exchanged. Maniacally obsessed with the leeches, we press on and encounter an unmistakably Dutch couple in a mountain hut. Pick two people from the crowd at Utrecht Central and place them abroad; recognition is easier than many an 'Oslo confrontation.' Encountering Dutch people abroad is, exceptions aside, not exactly one of the highlights of an average vacation. This is such an exception, and with more interest and enthusiasm than usual at home, we exchange experiences.

We walk briskly for many hours; during a downpour, we take a big slip in the mud. Just before the finish line of the day, a defensive buffalo blocks the path; the leeches have free rein while we make a cautious detour. Ghorepani is a truly desolate affair; you can only choose the least uninspired hotel. Not entirely sure if this succeeded, we end up at the dinner table with an old, weird Japanese man whose sole life goal has been limited to climbing Mt. Everest. Another strange character completes the trio; the food is lousy. The town is the springboard to the famous viewpoint 'Poon Hill' at 3,200 meters. Early in the morning with clear weather and rising sun is the tried-and-true ideal scenario; however, we first enjoy the pancakes before setting off upward. The views are indeed phenomenal, with almost every snow-capped peak of the Annapurna clearly on the retina. The absence of other tourists makes for a beautiful experience.

A long descent follows, interrupted by short breaks in the villages. The ongoing route is used by many pack donkeys besides walkers, resulting in stinking piles of dung. It takes little imagination that with rain showers and groundwater, these remains end up in local streams that serve everywhere as the main drinking water source. We are equipped with water purification drops, but the taste doesn't improve. Cows are not hindered in any way and are unmistakably part of the daily street scene. Dogs, on the other hand, are kicked quite quickly and pelted with stones.

Literally while writing this paragraph, the Russian couple with whom we trekked parts of the last section walks by here in Pokhara. We ask how we ultimately got back to the city since the most treacherous part, without realizing it, was still ahead. The guy had already heard somewhere that on the main route back to Pokhara by bus, there had been major mudslides, resulting in blockades and thus jams. Last night, it rained almost incessantly. The streams and rivers increase in strength and deposit more loose stones and gravel. The sometimes not very sturdy slopes with rice fields collapse under the pressure, and entire mudslides flood the roads. When we arrived at the endpoint in the late afternoon, we had little idea of the chaos unfolding further on. Soon we had to get out of the car and saw how the mobile unit tried to take control of the situation. This was no easy task, as in some sections, two hundred meters wide, the road was completely flooded with mud and stones. Sections of mountain slopes have been completely wiped away, and ongoing travelers try to continue their way through rice terraces. Buses and freight transport are stranded, and we just keep walking, looking for something to take us to Pokhara. Unlike the Russian couple, we ultimately succeed, and back in the city that evening, the extent of the local disaster that has unfolded becomes clear - nearly 40 people had to lose their lives in a region already so plagued with calamity.

Bosnia; diverse and captivating

Thu, 18 Dec 2025 21:21:00 GMT

Bosnia and Herzegovina (often simply called Bosnia) is a hidden gem in the Balkans, blending Ottoman, Austro-Hungarian, and Slavic influences into a rich cultural tapestry. This triangular-shaped country, bordered by Croatia, Serbia, and Montenegro, boasts stunning landscapes from rugged mountains and emerald rivers to medieval towns and Ottoman architecture. It's known for its resilient history, including the 1990s war, but today it's a welcoming destination for history geeks, nature lovers, and adventure seekers. With (very) affordable prices, friendly locals, and fewer crowds than neighboring Croatia, Bosnia offers an authentic European experience. The capital, Sarajevo , is a vibrant mix of East and West. Somewhat laidback for a capital but the city has a fascinating history to tell. Surround by mountains that offer good hiking options. Skiing in winter is very much possible. Places like Mostar showcase iconic bridges and turquoise waters. It can be quite touristy year round with tourists coming in from Montenegro, the Croatian coast and of course Sarajevo. Expect diverse experiences, from hiking in national parks to savoring cevapi (grilled sausages) in bustling bazaars.

Visa and Entry Requirements

Most visitors from the EU, US, Canada, Australia, and New Zealand can enter visa-free for up to 90 days within a 180-day period. Check for any updates, as requirements can change. You'll need a passport valid for at least three months beyond your stay. If entering from neighboring countries, border crossings are straightforward but may involve queues during peak season. Declare any amounts over 10,000 Euros (or equivalent) at customs. No mandatory vaccinations, but routine ones like hepatitis A and B are recommended.

Best Time to Visit

The ideal time is May to September for warm weather (20-30°C/68-86°F) and outdoor activities. Summers can be hot in the south, perfect for river rafting or festivals like the Sarajevo Film Festival in August. Winters (December-February) bring snow to mountains like Jahorina for skiing, but roads may close. Spring and fall offer milder crowds and lower prices, though rain is common. Avoid Ramadan if planning alcohol-related activities, as it's observed by the Muslim population.

How to Get There

Bosnia is accessible via air, land, or rail, primarily through its capital or neighboring hubs.

- By Air: The main gateway is Sarajevo International Airport (SJJ), with flights from major European cities like Istanbul, Vienna, Munich, and Zurich. Budget carriers like Ryanair and Wizz Air offer affordable options from Europe. Think about the Banja Luka and Tuzla airports - small but affordable prices with low cost carriers. From the US, expect connections via hubs like Frankfurt or Istanbul; round-trip fares from major US cities start around $470-1,400. Turkish Airlines provides direct routes from Istanbul to Sarajevo. Airport transfers: Taxis cost 20-30 BAM (10-15 EUR) to Sarajevo center; buses are cheaper at 5 BAM.

- By Bus: Frequent services from Croatia (Zagreb, Split, Dubrovnik), Serbia (Belgrade), and Montenegro. FlixBus and local operators like Centrotrans run routes; a Zagreb-Sarajevo trip takes 8 hours and costs 30-50 EUR. Borders are efficient but pack snacks for delays.

- By Train: Limited but scenic. Direct from Zagreb to Sarajevo (about 9 hours, 20-30 EUR). No high-speed rails; services from Belgrade are rare.

- By Car: Drive from Croatia or Serbia via highways. EU licenses are valid; green card insurance required for non-EU vehicles. Roads are improving but watch for mountain curves.

How to Get Around

Bosnia's transport network is recovering from war damage, so plan ahead. Buses dominate, but renting a car offers flexibility for rural areas.

- Buses: Reliable and cheap for intercity travel. Companies like Autobusni Kolodvor connect Sarajevo to Mostar (2-3 hours, 20 BAM) and Banja Luka (4-5 hours, 30 BAM). Book via GetByBus or at stations. Rural routes are less frequent.

- Trains: Limited network; the scenic Sarajevo-Mostar line (2.5 hours, 10-15 BAM) is popular. Trains to Ploče (Croatia) for coastal access. Check ZFBH for schedules—delays tend to be common.

- Car Rental: Best for exploring national parks like Sutjeska or Una. Rent from airports or cities (from 30 EUR/day via Sixt or local firms). Roads are mostly paved, but secondary ones can be narrow; use GPS apps like Waze. Fuel costs 2-2.5 BAM/liter. Drive defensively—locals tend to speed on highways.

- Taxis and Rideshares: No Uber/Lyft; use official taxis like Red Taxi in Sarajevo (call 1503 in Mostar). Fares start at 2 BAM, plus 1 BAM/km. In cities, apps like Bolt may work sporadically.

- Public Transport in Cities: Sarajevo has trams, buses, and trolleybuses (one-way 2 BAM). Buy tickets from kiosks or drivers. Mostar is walkable; Banja Luka has buses.

- Tours and Alternatives: For day trips (e.g., to Srebrenica or Kravica Waterfalls), join guided tours via GetYourGuide . Hitchhiking is possible in rural areas but not recommended for safety.

Recent traveler tips suggest mixing public transport with tours for efficiency, especially without a car. Sarajevo is walkable with good sidewalks.

Top Destinations

- Sarajevo: The "Jerusalem of Europe" with mosques, churches, and synagogues. Visit Baščaršija bazaar, the Tunnel of Hope (war museum), and hike to Yellow Bastion for views. Don't miss the Latin Bridge, site of Archduke Franz Ferdinand's assassination which ignited WW-I.

- Mostar: Famous for Stari Most (Old Bridge), a UNESCO site where divers jump into the Neretva River. Explore Ottoman quarters, the Herzegovina Museum, and nearby Blagaj Tekke (a Dervish monastery by a cliffside spring).

- Banja Luka: In Republika Srpska, with Kastel Fortress and Vrbas River rafting. More Orthodox influence, great for craft beer and parks. It’s a student city with a young population. It has an airport on a 30 mn drive and scenic hills and waterfalls around. However take into account there’s not to much to see and do in the city.

- Blagaj and Pocitelj: Day trips from Mostar—Blagaj's tekke is mystical, Pocitelj a stone village fortress.

- Bihac: close the Croatian border and a charming, old city know for it’s delicious honey cakes.

- Nature Spots: Kravica Waterfalls for swimming, Una National Park for rafting, and Visegrad's Mehmed Paša Sokolović Bridge (another UNESCO gem).

Things to Do

Hike in Sutjeska National Park (home to Europe's oldest primeval forest), raft on the Neretva or Tara Rivers, or ski in Bjelašnica. Cultural highlights: Sarajevo's museums, Mostar's bridge jumping (watch pros), and wine tasting in Herzegovina. Adventure options include paragliding over mountains or cycling the Ciro Trail (old railway path). For history, tour war sites respectfully.

Food and Drink

Bosnian cuisine is hearty and Ottoman-inspired. Try cevapi (minced meat in pita with onions), burek (flaky pastry with meat/cheese), dolma (stuffed veggies), and klepe (dumplings). Sweets like baklava and tufahija (apple dessert). Drink rakija (fruit brandy), local beers (Sarajevsko), or Bosnian coffee (strong, unfiltered). Vegetarians: Shopska salad or grilled veggies. Meals cost 10-20 BAM; street food is cheap. Bosnia ranks high in coffee consumption at 4.3 kg per capita annually.

Accommodations

Budget hostels in Sarajevo start at 15 BAM/night; mid-range hotels 50-100 BAM. Airbnb offers apartments in historic areas and is especially suited for mid to long term stays as you’ll have more space compared to a hotel room in most cases. Luxury options like Hotel Europe in Sarajevo. In rural spots, guesthouses (pansions) provide home-cooked meals.

Safety and Practical Tips

Bosnia is safe for tourists, but watch for pickpockets in crowds in cities like Sarajevo and Mostar but it tends to be rare. Landmines remain in remote areas—stick to marked paths. Tap water is drinkable in cities. Currency: Convertible Mark (BAM), tied to Euro (1 EUR ≈ 1.95 BAM). ATMs are widespread; cards accepted in cities. English is spoken in tourist areas especially by the younger geneation; learn basics like "hvala" (thanks). Respect religious sites—cover shoulders/knees in mosques. Tipping: Round up for service. SIM cards cheap for data. Renting a car? International Driving Permit advised. For nature, a car is best.

This underrated country rewards curious travelers with unforgettable scenery and hospitality—plan at least 5-7 days to scratch the surface!

New Orleans from a European perspective

Wed, 17 Dec 2025 21:40:00 GMT

We venture into New Orleans, and right away, we're struck by how pricey this gem of Louisiana can be! If this sets the tone for the rest of the United States, we're in for a surprise—prices here often eclipse those back in Europe. Imagine shelling out nearly $14 for a single 700-gram passion fruit (that's pitaya to some) at Whole Foods.

And accommodations? We can't find a private room in the heart of the city for under 100 euros a night. Instead, we settle for four nights in a hostel on Canal Street, that iconic divide between the lively, colonial charm of the French Quarter and the sleek, towering American business district. The heat envelops us like a thick, humid blanket in this city born from soggy swamps, where coats are a rarity pulled out only a handful of times each year. On the streets, pungent odors mingle with the refreshing blasts of air from shops cranking their AC to arctic levels. We navigate carefully, sometimes stepping over the homeless—wandering souls who seem lost in their own worlds but leave us be. Yet, as night falls on NOLA, or "The Big Easy" as it's affectionately known, we sense the undercurrents of danger. This state holds the grim distinction of leading the nation in both prisoners and murders per 100,000 residents. It's a "red" stronghold (even during the Obama era), though its urban hearts, like so many in red states, pulse with "blue" votes.

Long ago, Spanish explorers like Hernando de Soto dismissed this sweltering, alligator-infested swamp riddled with tropical maladies as unworthy. But fate wove a different tale: the vast Mississippi basin—from New Orleans stretching northward into Canada—fell under French colonial sway. (Fun fact: the Mississippi isn't even the longest U.S. river; that honor goes to its tributary, the Missouri.) As the young United States expanded, we can see why they eyed New Orleans as a vital logistical lifeline. So compelling was its promise that Napoleon himself bundled it into the Louisiana Purchase, handing over the territory to America. Yet, France's grip on much of that enormous expanse was tenuous at best, and the U.S. soon displaced and pursued the indigenous peoples who called it home.

Today, we stroll through the French Quarter, a nationally celebrated playground of revelry, where colonial European architecture blends with whispered legends and the bold tradition of daytime shots. Jazz ensembles weave their magic through the air, completing a vibrant tableau. The wrought-iron French balconies, the Creole-infused cuisine, and the lingering Gallic names hark back to echoes of a bygone era. But let's not be fooled by the facade—the French essence endures vibrantly. Scattered across Louisiana, over 100,000 souls still converse in French! These resilient Cajuns trace their roots to a final exodus from Acadia (now part of Quebec), where British forces once drove them out.

We can't discuss New Orleans without reflecting on Hurricane Katrina, the most devastating natural catastrophe to ever batter the U.S. Back in late August 2005—while one of us was studying in Michigan—the harrowing TV footage etched itself into our memories: the relentless floods, the Superdome transformed into a chaotic refuge that grew intolerable within days. The hurricane's eye grazed just east of the city, but the destruction was apocalyptic. Why? Much of New Orleans lies below sea level, and the overwhelmed levees and pumps buckled under the onslaught from the Mississippi River and surrounding lakes. Vast swaths of the city submerged, trapping the poorest residents—those without means to escape—like cornered animals in a deluge.

Two-thirds of the population here is Black, amplifying the tragedy's human toll. Aid arrived haltingly, strained by bureaucracy, sparking whispers of racism. The mayor didn't mince words, declaring that if New York or Los Angeles had been struck, the response would have been swift and unyielding. For years prior, federal funds for water management had been siphoned off to fuel the war on terror, leaving vulnerabilities exposed. President Bush faced a torrent of criticism—he only cut short his vacation after two days, and his FEMA appointees fumbled disastrously. In a twist of global irony, even adversaries like Cuba, North Korea, and Iran extended offers of assistance. In the disaster's wake, we learned that experts turned to the Delta Works in Zeeland, Netherlands, for inspiration on fortifying against future floods and taming the waters.

Even in everyday encounters, like browsing a local shoe store, we're overwhelmed by the eager salespeople who swarm us with offers of help every few minutes. As Europeans, it feels intrusive, almost pressuring us into a purchase out of sheer politeness. The commercial zeal permeates everything—from flashy sales promotions on supermarket packaging to the relentless transaction focus in shops. And then there's the tipping culture, which leaves us wide-eyed. At restaurants, an 18% "gratuity" line on the bill prompts a double-take. Wherever service plays a role, tips aren't just appreciated—they're expected, with anything below 15% deemed insufficient. The U.S. has long been infamous for this, but post-pandemic, it's escalated wildly. Workers in roles that never saw tips before now receive them out of empathy, while digital checkout screens amp up the social pressure with the cashier watching. Amid inflation's squeeze, restaurants juggle keeping menu prices affordable while luring top talent with the promise of those extra earnings. In "The Big Easy," we've discovered, nothing comes quite so easily—yet its raw energy and layered history keep drawing us deeper into its spell.

Europe's top regions to travel by train

Mon, 15 Dec 2025 09:47:00 GMT

If you want to slow down, skip the airport hassle, and watch postcard landscapes roll past your window, there’s no better way to explore Europe than by train. With high-speed networks, scenic routes, and easy border crossings, rail travel is not only convenient—it’s one of the most rewarding ways to experience the continent.

Below are the best regions in Europe for train travel , why they’re perfect for rail explorers, and what makes each one unique.

Central Europe: Germany, Austria, Switzerland

Best for: Seamless high-speed links + cinematic scenery
Key: Central Europe train travel, Swiss trains, Austria rail routes

Central Europe is the gold standard for rail travel. Germany’s ICE network, Austria’s ÖBB Railjet, and Switzerland’s famously punctual system make traveling here both effortless and beautiful. Especially in Switzerland and Austria trains are a great experience and very reliable. So you get real value for money. Germany has a large train network but its infrastructure and management can be outdated leading to hiccups and interruptions. DB is receiving the lion’s share of the complaints.